St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

Ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central counterfort of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty, (E. Poltavets, 2010) Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Participants:

• Kananykhin I.V.
• Solovey A.I.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

| 1.1 | Leader's full name, sports rank | Kananykhin Igor Vladimirovich, CMS |

St. Petersburg Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent of Kara-Kaya peak (3646 m) Route via the Central counterfort of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty, (E. Poltavets, 2010) St. Petersburg 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, item 2.5.226 (Minutes of the Classification Commission meeting No. 6 dated December 28, 2010)
2. Name of the peak: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central counterfort of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2024. High-Technical Class

Report on the Ascent of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the Central Counterfort of the Southwest Wall, 6A cat. compl. (E. Poltavets) by the Voronezh Team from September 11 to 14, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Moscow Climbing Championship 2024

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Karakaya via the Central Counterfort of the Southwest Wall, 6A category of difficulty, by the team from Moscow from October 9 to October 13, 2024.

Semenov M. A. — Master of Sports Vvedenskaya V. V. — 1st sports category Spichka A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Alpine Club — "Mountain Madness"

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-Krest ridge (43° 2′ 37,71″ N 43° 16′ 25,86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably 2B category of complexity Zaryaev V. V. — Galimzyanov T. R.

Ascent participants

Katyn-Tau, NE ridge – 4B cat. diff.

The initial bivouac is on the Bezengi glacier under the base of the NE counterfort. From the bivouac, cross the bergschrund via an avalanche deposit to the left of the counterfort and move up the snowy slope 400 m to the right of the avalanche chute, then traverse to the right under the rocks of the counterfort and ascend 80 m up a rocky couloir onto the counterfort. Further:

• Keep to the left slopes
• Move up through simple rocks alternating with snowy sections
• Proceed along the snowy slope to the "cushion" 6–7 hours from the bivouac. An overnight stay can be organized on the "cushion". The initial bivouac is on the ridge at the beginning of the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. From the bivouac:

Katyn 58 to the S. wall I. Kudinov 12.08–14.08 11.08 9.08 ▲10.08

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

Bakin Kudinov

99. The North summit of Kayashkishubashi via the North-Eastern buttress - Cat. 1B (G. Stepanov, Yu. Vuslik, O. Degtyarev, V. Eremeev, V. Ershov, V. Kompanovsky, V. Kos, O. Lomakin, D. Muzhev, V. Nagolny, A. Snesarev and R. Khabatov - December 7, 1955, Fig. 33). From Mukhol village, follow the pack trail up, then along the slope of the right bank of the Chainashki river. At the foot of Chuprobashi peak - bivouac. From Mukhol village - 6-7 hours. From the bivouac, ascend the scree, then the snowy slopes to a wide couloir. Ascend the right side of the couloir; 60-70-meter "sheep's foreheads" in the middle part of the couloir are traversed via the central gully; further ascent on scree leads to the Eastern snow cirque formed by Kayashkishubashi and Chuprobashi peaks. Traverse the scree, then the snow-ice fields and slopes of the Unnamed glacier left-upwards, below the left slopes of the North-Eastern buttress of Kayashkishubashi peak. Below the buttress - bivouac. From the first bivouac - 7-8 hours. From the plateau, ascend simple and moderately difficult rock terrain ("live" rocks!) to the North-Eastern buttress of the peak. Along the edge of rocks and snow, in places via broken simple rocks, ascend to the summit rock pitch, 30-40 meters, and via it (belay!) reach the North summit of Kayashkishubashi. From the bivouac below the buttress - 3-4 hours. Descent via the ascent route to the bivouac below the buttress - 1.5-2 hours. Recommendations for climbers:
100. Number of participants - 4-20 people.
101. Initial bivouac - grassy slopes, Chuprobashi peak.
102. Departure time - 4-5 am.
103. Equipment: main rope - 2×30 m; auxiliary cord - 1.5 m; rock pitons - 2-3; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 7-8; tent - 1.
104. Bivouac locations - on the Unnamed glacier and on simple rocks of the North-Eastern buttress.