MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 Class of High-Altitude Ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko) 6B category of complexity.

Passport of the Ascent

1. Region — Central Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.18.
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko).

Ascent Record

1. Region — Central Tien-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, September 7, 1918
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via SW facet of SW edge (V. Sviridenko)
3. Complexity category — 6B
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2395 m, elevation gain of the wall section — 1450 m, route length — 3455 m, length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 170 m, 5th category — 700 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge (KMGV section No. – 7.9)
2. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SW crest SSW rib (V. Sviridenko, 82)
3. 6B category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 2595 m. Route length — 3720 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 460 m, 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 58°, entire route — 49°
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Removable bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Total artificial climbing anchors used – 13.
7. Team's total climbing hours – 56, days – 7.

Passport

I. Category — High-altitude 2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge 3. Khan-Tengri Peak 103 South-West edge (V. Sviridenko, 82) 4. 6B cat. diff. (2nd ascent) 5. Height difference 2725 m, length 4920 m.

• Length of 6A–6B cat. diff. sections 480 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°.

6. Hooks left on the route (not extracted) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not extracted — 3 piton hooks.

Passport

High-altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier, Khan-Tengri peak via the southwestern spur of the south-southwestern ridge. Category 6B difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 2500 m, route length: 3280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category: 1015 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°, of which 6B category difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven:

Rock	Bolts	Nuts	Ice
77	1	81	93
6	X	9	0
X — reuse of previously driven pitons.

Passport

I. Category of mountaineering ascent. 2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. 3. Peak Khan-Tengri 103 SSW edge (V. Sviridenko, 82). 4. 6B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 2590 m, length 3820 m. Length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m. Length of sections 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°. 6. Number of anchors used:

• rock anchors — 116
• protection equipment — 120

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb category.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tağ range, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the southwest wall.
4. Proposed route: 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 2660 m; route length — 3448 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1134 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° (4336–6130), including 95 m of 6th category at 87°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock pitons | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--------- | :---- | :---- | :--------- |