Ak-Sai glacier

Report on the second ascent of the route category 6A to the peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in the Central Tian Shan by the North wall.

p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley. Section in classification 7.4 Report on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff. Addresses: 620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, [email protected], Ekaterinburg, 2010 Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Description of the first ascent of the winter route, category 6B, to Svyatoi Korni Peak (4777 m) via the left part of the north face.

Climbing Passport Climbing category — winter. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too. Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the left part of the north face. Category — 6B, first ascent. Route characteristics: height difference: to the ridge — 530 m, to the summit — 650 m; distance: to the ridge — 680 m, to the summit about 1000 m; distance of 6th category sections — 300 m, 5th category — 380 m; average slope to the ridge — 65°;

Ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Kraysport team to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the right bastion of the southern wall, first ascent of a route of 6A category of difficulty.

PASSPORT Technical class Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via the right bastion of the S wall Proposed — 6A category of complexity, first ascent Route characteristics: | elevation gain | 670 m | | :--------------------------------------- | :---------- | | length | 1270 m | | length of section R5–R6 6 category | 555 m |

Report on the second ascent of the route with category 6A difficulty on Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in the Central Tien Shan.

Svobodnaya Korea peak, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff. Team leader: Dashkevich S.A., Master of Sports Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Aksay gorge. Section in Classification 7.4 REPORT on the second ascent made by a team from the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk Region (FAIS of Sverdlovsk Region) to Svobodnaya Korea peak, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6Az cat. diff. Addresses: 620092, Yekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, apt. 17 Dashkevich Sergey Alexandrovich Phone: 89122436251

### Description of the first ascent of Pik Svobodnoy Korei via the left triangle of the north face, category 6B complexity, made by the Yenisey club team from Krasnoyarsk in 1991.

Passport Climbing category — technical Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the left triangle of the northern wall Category 6B, first ascent Height difference 700 m, length 1160 m. Wall section height difference 520 m.

Report on the first ascent of the north wall of Svobodnoy Korei peak (4777 m) in the Ak-Sai gorge, made by the team of the Sverdlovsk region in 2015.

Russian Mountaineering Championship, Ice and Snow Climbing Class 2015 Report Team from Sverdlovsk Oblast First ascent to the right of the left triangle of the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m (Ak-Sai valley) March 5-6, 2015 Ascent Passport Class – Ice and Snow Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley (classification table number 7.4) Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, to the right of the left triangle of the northern wall.

Climbing passport for peak Svobodnaya Korea via the route of 5B category of difficulty on the right edge of the North face.

Ascent Log High-altitude technical category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, Ak-Sai valley. Svobodnaya Korea Peak. Right edge of the North face. 4740 m. Route 5B category of difficulty (L. Myshlyaev, 1961). Approximately the fourth ascent of the route. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergshrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m. Length of the central part 270 m. Length of sections with 6th category: 235 m.

Report on the ascent of team A/B "Elbrus" to Svobodnaya Korea peak via the N wall (cat. 5B) on July 29, 1985 as part of the USSR Alpine Championship.

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR. The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko). Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range. Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted. On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted. At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used: ice axe ice screws screw and ice piton hooks.

Winter ascent certificate for Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan, complexity category 5B.

Ascent Passport Ascent category — winter Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge Object — Pik Svobodnaya Korea Category of difficulty — 5B, KTM 148 (B.Bogaev, 74) Height difference — 1124 m, length 1345 m, length of ice axe terrain sections 100 m, average steepness of the route 58° (bergschrund — ridge), average steepness of the wall 64° (3700–4580) Pitons driven | rock | stoppers | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: | | 36 | 28 | 45 |

Winter ascent of the State Committee for Sports of the Republic of Uzbekistan team to the peak "Svobodnaya Korea" via the right part of S. st.'s "triangle", a 6A category route.

PASSPORT Winter category. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Aла-Арча gorge. Peak "Svobodnaya Koreya" 4740 m. Route variations: Myshlyaev L. (right rib of N. side) via the right part of N. side. Bagaev B. (triangle of "N. side") 6A category proposed for a winter group ascent. Elevation gain — 640 m. Distance — 770 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (from bergschrund to ridge 61°).