Ak-Sai glacier

The first winter ascent to the summit of Korona (4810 m) via the ice wall of 3rd category of difficulty, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, Tian Shan.

I. Climbing category — technical Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18

Ascent to the double summit of the Korona massif, 1 and 2 tower, via route 4A category of difficulty.

Route Ascent to Korona peak, 1st - 2nd towers, 4A cat. diff. B. Gavrilov, '56

Description of the route to the I Vorona tower, a challenging rock and ice path with piton belay and sport descent.

Route Description From the foot of the Vrona Glacier, initially move along the talus, then along the right (orographically) side of the glacier in the direction of the saddle between the I and II Towers of Vrona. From the gendarme V. Korona, move in crampons. The bergschrund is passed via a snow bridge in the right part of the glacier. Further, bypass the black gendarme on the right, ending at the saddle with a yellow saw-tooth wall. The exit to the saddle is between the yellow wall and a heavily destroyed gendarme. Ascent up the wall (7 m, 80°) with piton belay, then move along the ridge to the top of the gendarme (belay via protrusions). At the top - control cairn. Further, descend down to the gap between the saw-tooth gendarme and the I Tower of Vrona: Descend 8 m to a square ledge; From it, descend sportingly (10–12 m, 80°) into the gap. From the gap: Ascend right-upwards along a sheer wall (4 m, 90°) - piton belay; Further ascent along inclined slabs (60 m, 30°) and exit via ledges to the summit.

Description of the ascent route to the Corona peak (4610 m) in Kyrgyz Ala-Too, difficulty category 3a.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent Class Ascent Area Peak, its height, ascent route Proposed difficulty category Route characteristics: Number of pitons for belay and descent organization: Number of travel hours Number of nights and their characteristics first ascent Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa tourist center; Ak-Sai glacier cirque. v. Korona (I-st tower),

Ascent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, description of the challenging route, and key points for climbers.

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Report on the first ascent of the route of 4B category of difficulty on the Izycskatel peak (4400 m) along the southern ridge in the Kyrgyz ridge.

Report on the first ascent of the route to the peak Izyiskatel via the southern ridge. Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Izyiskatel 4400 m. Proposed category 4B, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky. The height difference of the route is 500 m. The length of the route is 1050 m. Length of sections: II — 500 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m, Average slope: main (wall) part of the route — 60° Total route — 30° Hooks left on the route: total — 0; Used in total on the route: rock pitons — 7, chocks — 20. Used in total artificial climbing holds (ACH) — 0 pcs.

Descriptions of climbing routes to Peak Izmailovsky with difficulty categories 2A and 3B, including snow-ice slopes and walls.

Routes to the peak Izmaylovskiy 4400 m Along the S.E. ridge 2A cat. dif. V. Vozopotov, 82 Along the W. ridge from the Severo-Izyumskiy to the Crown 3B cat. dif. V. Glukhov, 67 Snow-ice slope 40° 60 m Along the center of the n.w. wall 3B cat. dif. V. Rodikov, 33 Snow-ice slope 45° 50 m 320 m 45–50° 85 m 45–50°

Description of the ascent route to Peak Izycskatels (4400 m) via the northwest wall, category 3B difficulty level.

Ascent category — snow and ice Kyrgyz Ala-Too Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face Proposed category difficulty — 3B Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50° Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws) Climbing hours — 4.5 Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent route description for Peak Issledovatel (4400 m) in Kyrgyz Ala-Too with a difficulty category of 2B.

I. Climbing category: — technical II. Climbing area: — Kirghizskiy Ala-Too III. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Izyiskatel' 4400 m from the North. IV. Proposed difficulty category — 2B V. Route characteristics: — height difference 670 m; complex section length 80 m; average steepness 40° VI. Pitons hammered: for belay — 4 ice screws. VII. Number of travel hours — 5; VIII. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: Leader: BOGOLYUBOV V.V. — 3rd sports category. Participants:

Report on the first ascent of the route of 5B category of difficulty via the left part of the northern wall of p. Box (4240 m) in the Ala-Archa gorge.

Report on the first ascent of the route on p. Box via the left part of the north wall. Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the north wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is combined. Height difference of the route: 800 m. Route length: 1100 m Length of sections: I — 400 m, II — 40 m, III — 100 m, IV — 155 m, V — 280 m, VI — 120 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 75–80°. Total route — 50°. Hooks left on the route: total — 7.