Genaldon

Traverse of Jimray-khokh, "4398" and Saoutisi-khokh peaks in North Ossetia, category III-V, route description from 1958.

The peaks of Jimarai-khok (4776 m), "4398" and Soutisi-khok (4473 m) are located west of the peak Kazbek in the spur of its snowy massif and limit the Midagravin plateau from the east and southeast. Jimarai-khok is the highest peak in the mountains of North Ossetia. Its icy-rocky northern wall is clearly visible in clear weather from the city of Ordzhonikidze between the white caps of Kazbek and Shau-khokh (4000 m). The peaks of Jimarai-khok, "4398" and Soutisi-khokh are composed of schists cut by diabases and effusives, and have significant glaciation. The western rocky ridge of Jimarai consists of effusive rocks. The first ascent to Jimarai was made by a group led by Z. Japaridze in 1935 via the western rocky ridge. In subsequent years: In 1950, climbers from the "Medik" Sports Society of North Ossetia visited Jimarai again. In 1955, a group from the North Ossetian alpine section led by Suzhaev traversed the peaks of Jimarai-khok - Shau-khokh, which was rated as a category 5B route. The peak Soutisi was first conquered by a group led by S.V. Polyakov in 1956 via a ridge ascent from the Tep pass. No one has ever been to the peak "4398", which remains nameless. The beauty of the Jimarai, Soutisi peaks and the snowy-icy ridge with cornices and icicles between them prompted the climbers from the "Lokomotiv" Sports Society to undertake this traverse, which is described below.

Climbing route description for Tbaukhokh peak (3007 m) via the North-West face, with a complexity category of 3B-4A, featuring a detailed path analysis and recommendations.

Passport Ascent class: rock climbing. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity

First ascent description of Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m) via South-West wall, grade 5A, in the Caucasus, Kurtatinsky gorge.

Ascent log. Ascent category: rock. 2.7.1 Ascent area: 2,8; Caucasus: Kurtatinskoye gorge. Summit, route: Mt. Tbau-khokh (2980 m); via the Southwest wall. Estimated difficulty category: 5A category; first ascent. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length — 1200 m. Section lengths: 6 — 50 m; 5 — 210 m; 3-4 — 330 m. Average slope: 40°; wall section: 60°. Pitons hammered: rock — 34; chocks — 4; ice screws — none. Number of climbing hours (days): 23 (2) Number of bivouacs: 1st — on approach; 2nd — on the wall; 3rd — on descent. Leader: Glazov A. P. – Master of Sports

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Kazbek via the NW ridge from the Maili glacier slope, category 2B, climbed by a group led by Georgy Anoshin in 1990.

Passport Technical class Caucasus, Genaldon gorge, Maili glacier Kazbek peak via NW ridge-slope from Maili glacier Proposed 2B category of difficulty, combined, first ascent Elevation gain 2750 m, length (height) of sections: 2B category of difficulty — 1200 m, 3A category of difficulty — 150 m, 2A category of difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 35–40°, steepness of the dome (snow-ice) — 40–45°. No pitons were left on the route previously. Team's travel hours: ascent — 12, descent — 12, including 4 hours searching for the path during descent from the summit in fog. Two nights — on the "shoulder" of the plateau

### Ascent Route to Phnuoy Kaïdjanas Peak with 1B-Pi-A Difficulty Category A detailed guide for a 4-person mountaineering group.

The descent from the trough to the Chach gorge takes an hour. The descent from the bivouac to the village of Gvileti takes 2–2.5 hours. From here, it is possible to return to the city of Ordzhonikidze by car in 1.5 hours. Equipment recommended for a group of 4 people Main ropes 30 m — 2 pieces. Rock hooks — 10 pieces. Group carabiners — 7 pieces. Hammers — 2 pieces. Description of the ascent route to South Kaidzhany from the South 1B - P - A cat. diff. Day 1. The route of the 1st day and the ascent to the trough of the Kaidzhany glacier completely coincides with the previous description. The bivouac location is in front of the "gates" of the Chach gorge. Day 2. Departure no later than 5:00. They go up the slope, leaving the mentioned couloir on the left. After the grassy slopes, they climb up the scree, climb onto the hill of the ancient terminal moraine of the glacier, and enter the glacier cirque.

Route description to the summit of Kaddmani North from the north to the east via the Eastern ridge, difficulty category P-A.

North Kaidzhany from the East PD - PD+ cat. diff. The Kaidzhany massif is part of the Kazbek group of peaks in the Central Caucasus. North Kaidzhany is located in the northern spur of Peak Spartak. The summit is a nodal point. The northern ridge leads to Malaia Kaidzhany (3700 m), the southwestern ridge leads to South Kaidzhany (3916 m), and the southeastern ridge leads to Peak 25th anniversary of SKGMI (3870 m). The following routes are laid on North Kaidzhany: From the South from Chachskoye gorge — 1B cat. diff. Along the Northern ridge with exit from the gorge of the Belaya River. — PD cat. diff. The route along the Eastern edge from the Belaya River gorge was first climbed on August 5, 1973, by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by R. P. Proskuryakov. The ascent with return to Ordzhonikidze takes 1.5 days. Terrain Drive along the Military Georgian Road to the village of Verkhniy Lars (1200 m above sea level). To the right, before the village, the Belaya River flows into the Terek River. Walk along the trail along the left bank for about 3 hours to the area of the trough-shaped expansion of the gorge.

Report on the first traverse ascent of Tbau Glavnaya — Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya 1Bz category of difficulty by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.

Report on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024. I. Climbing Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :-- | :-- | :-- | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. | | 1.4 | Organization | FATUM CAT | | 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | | |

Climbing route description for the peak "Iriston" (Unnamed summit, 4000 m) with a PD category of difficulty, situated in the watershed ridge between Genal-don and Chach-khi river basins.

Route Description Ascent to the Nameless peak (4000 m above sea level) (Peak "Iriston") 1A category of difficulty. The peak is located in the watershed ridge (between the Genaldon and Chachkhi river basins) connecting the Kazbek firn plateau with the Chach-khokh peak (4100 m). The immediate neighbors of the peak in the ridge are from south to north: Ordzhonikidzevskaya railway peak (4300 m) Chach-khokh. The first ascent was made on October 25, 1964 from the Chach gorge by a group of the Spartak Council of the DSO in the amount of 7 people led by L. Tabolov. Day 1. The group reaches the village of Gvileti by car, from where it takes no more than 1 hour of walking along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kabakhi and Chachkhi rivers. After crossing the pedestrian bridge over the Kabakhi River and overcoming the steep ascent of the trail, they head along the trail to the right (Chach) gorge. The trail leads to the second bridge, which should be crossed to the left (orographic) bank of the Chachkhi River. Here, on the slope, there are many trails, which, however, all lead to the gate of the Chach gorge (height difference of about 300-400 m). In this area, it is recommended to navigate to a single birch tree growing under the wall of the first "gate", heading higher up the slope. Having overcome the "ram's foreheads" of the "gate" along one of the shelves dividing them, one should: go up along the grassy slope to a group of trees,

Ascent to the summit of Donchenta North (4082 m) via the Western Counterfort, complexity category 2A, rock route, height difference 900 m.

Ascent Passport Caucasus. Lateral Ridge, Tsariutdon gorge, section number in KMGV 2.8. Donchenty North (4082 m) via the Western counterfort. 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — rocky. Route height difference — 900 m. Total route length — about 1800 m. Average route steepness — 30°. Pitons driven: rocky — 6, ice — 2, placements — 2. Travel hours — 12; days — 1.

Description of a new 3A category alpine route via the South face of the East ridge of Kuardjin East peak in Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number — 2.8. Kuardjin East (2600 m); via the South wall of the East ridge. Proposed 3A category; first ascent. Route character — rock climbing. Route height difference – 320 m. Length of the wall part – 415 m. Total route length – 715 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 5 m. Steepness of key sections 80–90°. Pitons left on the route – 5. Team's working hours – 8 hours; days – 2.