Ascent Report

Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m) — Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort — Route 5A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Ilyinsky V.A.
• Shcherban A.N.

2013

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1
2. Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m), via E wall of S counterfort.
3. Proposed — 5A — first ascent.

As­cen­sion cer­ti­fi­cate

1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ba­ruun-Khan­da­gai riv­er gorge. Sec­tion num­ber ac­cord­ing to clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble 6.1.2 — Char­s­kie Zori, 2920 m (sum­mit co­or­di­nates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E), via south-east­ern coun­ter­fort of west­ern ridge
2. Dif­fi­cul­ty cat­e­gory: pro­posed 4B cat., first as­cen­sion
3. Na­ture of the route — rocky.
4. Route el­e­va­tion dif­fer­ence: 400 m Route length: 550 m. Length of sec­tions: V cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 60 m, VI cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 85 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: wall sec­tion of the route — 80°, en­tire route

6.1 Eastern Sayan Charskiye зори, 2920 m 3Аz from North by 3 ridge Zhigalov А.V. October 23, 2012

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Region — Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai
3. Peak Charskiye зори, 2920 m from North by 3 ridge
4. Supposed — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 680 m.
• total length 1900 m.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikal

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

Irkutsk, 2016. Passport of the Ascent

1. (Eastern) Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table (6.1.2).
2. Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge.

Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III

6.1.2. Irkutsk 2008. Scheme of the route to Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III.

Uzel Rebyonka	Length m	Steepness °	Difficulty	Number of pitons
	20	30	IIIБ
	40	60	IIIБ
	30	40	I-
	15	55	IIIБ
	10		V-

Sheet 1

Passport

1. Technical category
2. East Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gorge
3. V. Stol, via the left buttress of the NE wall
4. Proposed 6A category. First ascent
5. Height difference — 460 m, length 700 m, sections with 6th category difficulty — 141 m, average steepness — 75°.
6. Pitons left on the route: 10 bolted, 2 "carrots", 1 "box", 3 stoppers.
7. Team's climbing hours: 77, days: 3 — preparation, 4 — ascent.
8. Overnights — 3 on snow ledges in a tent.

Primorskaya Federation of Alpinism and Mountaineering

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Sibir 2870 m via the Center of the North Face. Approximately 5A category of difficulty.

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Rubtsov Vasily Alexandrovich – 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Shatalov Nikita Andreevich – 1st sports rank Kupchik Polina Valerievna – 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach	none

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism Gory Baikala"

Report on the First Ascent

To v. Sibir' 2870 m via the Eastern ridge. Approximately 2A category of difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sibir' 2870 m (summit coordinates: 51°54′48.53″N, 102°10′13.40″E) via the Eastern ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 2A first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain: 324 m. Route length: 460 m.

Ascent Report

As part of the Siberian Federal District Alpine Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class 2024

Peak Sever (2826 m) via the center of the S wall, route 5Б cat. diff., Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai river valley, 6.1.2 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Panova A.M.
• Ivanovskiy A.V. Ascent completed on August 3, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

| | 1. General Information | |

Report on the First Ascent

On peak Sever 2826 m. Via the center of the North face. Tentatively 5B category of difficulty. Ulan-Ude, 2015

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sever 2826 m (peak coordinates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E). Via the center of the North face.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B. First ascent.
4. Route character — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: 400 m. Route length: 600 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 200 m