I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderVasilenko Olga Igorevna, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full Name, sports rank of the participantsStuchilina Anna Anatolyevna, "Alpinist Rossii" badge
1.3Full Name of the coachNadtochiy Sergey Valentinovich
1.4Organization"Kerch Alpine Club"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionCrimea
2.2Valley
2.3Section number according to the 2013 classification table
2.4Name and height of the summitSokol, 473 m
2.5Geographical coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinates *(1)
3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1Route nameZagadka
3.2Proposed category of difficulty2B
3.3Degree of route explorationFirst ascent
3.4Character of the route terrainRock
3.5Route elevation gain (altimeter or GPS data)250 m
3.6Route length (in meters)367 m
3.7Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of varying difficulty with terrain type)Category I rocks – 20 m
Category II rocks – 97 m
Category III rocks – 90 m
Category IV rocks – 75 m
3.8Descent from the summitDescent on foot via trail towards Novy Svet settlement or Sudak city
3.9Additional route characteristicsLack of water
4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1Time in motion (team's walking hours, in hours and days)7 hours
4.2OvernightsNone
4.3Start of the route11:00, June 5, 2021
4.4Reach the summit18:00, June 5, 2021
4.5Return to base camp19:00, June 5, 2021
5. Responsible for the Report
5.1Full Name, e-mailVasilenko Olga Igorevna, dev2000@mail.ru

II. ASCENT DESCRIPTION

1. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

1.1. General photo of the summit — see Photo 1 — taken on July 1, 2020. Shooting location — Galitsyn trail, Novy Svet. img-0.jpeg

Photo 1. Sokol Mountain 1.2.img-1.jpegPhoto 2. Route profile. The photo was taken during the passage from station R0 of the "Gammii" route. The participant is at the location of the bolt.

2. Characteristics of the Route

2.1. Technical photograph of the route, taken from a rocky ledge, 400 m to the right of the beginning of the Western wall of Sokol — see Photo 2 img-2.jpeg

Photo 3. Technical photograph of the route. 2.3. Technical characteristics of the route sections *(5)

Section №Terrain characterDifficulty categoryLength, mType and number of anchors
R0–R1Internal angle60 mChocks – 3 pcs., Friends – 6 pcs.
R1–R2Initially not steep terrain, at the end of the section a steep "mirror"60 mFriend – 3, Bolt – 1, Anchor hook – 1
R2–R3Traverse of the "mirror"45 mAnchor hooks – 6, Friend – 1, Bolt – 1
R3–R4Simple30 mFriend – 1 pcs.
R4–R5Rocky "gutter"50 mFriends – 4 pcs., Chocks – 3 pcs., Anchor hook – 1 pcs.
R5–R6Wall with a watercourse60 mChock – 2 pcs.
R6–R7Simple transition beyond the inflection into the "circus"10 m 2Not used
R7–R8System of cracks leading out of the stone "circus"60 mFriends – 3 pcs., Chocks – 2 pcs., Anchor hook – 2

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3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions

3.1. All sections were climbed with free climbing; on the second rope before section 5, a category 5 difficulty, 8 m, a 10 mm bolt was hammered. As station R2, the station of the "Po nozhu" route was used; also on section 3 (R2–R3), a bolt from the "Kosyк" route was used.

Section №DescriptionPhoto №
R0–R155 m. From the large juniper upwards through the crack to the intersection with the "Gammii Wall" route. Sometimes rockfall hazard – a large lying stone above the crack can be bypassed on the right. Station on a juniper bush. 15 m 2, 40 m 3.4
R1–R2First upwards 25 m, then to the right at 2 o'clock in the direction of R2 station of the "Po nozhu" route. It is also R2 of "Zagadka". 7–8 m before the station, a bolt was hammered. 30 m 2, 22 m 3, 8 m 5.5
R2–R345 m. Traverse to the right at 3 o'clock to a bush (pine). Protection is problematic. Bypass the bush from above, then to the right upwards at 1 o'clock to the bolt of the "Kosyк" route, after the bolt to the right to a hollow, then slightly descended to a large juniper. 45 m 4+.6
R3–R430 m. Simple transition under the base of the gutter between two summits. Station on a tree – yew berry. 15 m no protection, 15 m 2.7
R4–R5Climb the gutter. Then a simple transition 10 m under a small wall with a watercourse. Station on a tree. At the exit from the gutter lie stones that can be dislodged by a rope on the second climber, who is recommended to move away from the line of fall; it is possible to climb to the right. In rain, the section is rockfall hazardous. 10 m 2, 30 m 3, 10 m 1.8
R5–R6R6–R7. 57 m. Upwards along the watercourse on its right part, then along simple terrain slightly to the left in the direction of the stone "circus". Station before the inflection on a pine. 15 m 2+, 35 m no protection, 10 m 1.
R6–R710 m. Transition through the inflection into the stone "circus". Station on a pine 5 m from the inflection. 10 m 2.
R7–R860 m. Upwards from the pine 10 m in the direction of the right part of the "circus", then traverse to the left along the system of cracks at 10 o'clock, bypassing a broken juniper from below, upwards at 11 o'clock along cracks to a large pine and further upwards along the crack to the exit from the "circus". In the cracks, there are loose stones! Station beyond the inflection on a juniper. 10 m 2, 20 m 3, 30 m 4.9

3.2. Photo of the team on the summit near the remains of the triangulator — see Photo 10 and Photo 11

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Photo 10. Vasilenko O.I. on the summit img-5.jpeg

Photo 11. Stuchilina A.A. on the summit. 3.3. The route is recommended for prepared participants with experience of at least 2B. Protection is almost always easily organized; the terrain is reliable, although there are many separate lying stones. Cellular communication is available. Descent via trail towards Novy Svet settlement or Sudak city.

Route features:

  • Protection is almost always easily organized
  • The terrain is reliable, although there are many separate lying stones
  • Cellular communication is available
  • Descent via trail towards Novy Svet settlement or Sudak city

We propose to classify it as 2B. img-6.jpeg

Photo 4. Section R0–R1 img-7.jpeg

Photo 5. Section R1–R2 img-8.jpeg

Photo 6. Section R2–R3 img-9.jpeg

Photo 7. Section R3–R4 img-10.jpeg

Photo 8. Section R4–R5 img-11.jpeg

Photo 9. Section R7–R8

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Sources

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