St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to the summit of Asan (4230 m) via the left part of the E wall, 5B category The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg

Ascent Passport

1. Gissaro-Alay, Karavshin valley Section No. 5.4.3 of the classifier for mountain peak routes
2. Asan peak, 4230 m, via the left part of the E wall (M. Gorbenko route, 1988)
3. Category: 5B
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: ~700 m

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karasu river valley.
3. Summit — Peak Asan (4230 m), right part of the western wall.
4. Proposed route — 5B category of difficulty, Alperin route variant.
5. Route length — 1200 m. Height difference — 880 m. N-T Pleskacheva 2nd. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 690 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route (3420–4130 m) — 78°. Sections of 6th category of difficulty: 82° (3480–3550 m), 80° (3570–3610 m), 86° (3685–3765 m).
6. Pitons hammered: rock (75/32), bolt (4/4), chocks (128/61), skyhooks (5/5).

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Turkestan Range, Karavshin river valley, Karasu gorge
3. Peak Asan via western spur
4. Category 5B, third ascent
5. Height difference 690 m, length 710 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 460 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 72°
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Reused bolt pitons | Nuts | | :--- | :----------------- | :--- | | 94 | 2 | 70 |

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Peak 4230 m (Asan), via the spur of the Western wall.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference 820 m, route length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty is 530 m, including 140 m of 6th category.
6. Average slope of the route is 63°, up to the ridge it's 70°.
7. Number of pitons used: Rock pitons 130/26, bolt pitons 2/1, chocks 91/14

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley.
3. Peak Asan (4230 m), via the 3rd buttress of the NW wall, Alperin's route.
4. Category 5B difficulty.
5. Height difference 850 m, length 950 m, length of climbing sections IV–V (4b–5a) cat. diff. – 230 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. diff. – 455 m, length of climbing sections VII (6a+/6b) cat. diff. – 235 m, additionally – aid climbing A1 – 20 m, A2 – 90 m.

Passport

1. Rock climbing.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Peak Asan (4230 m) from the east.
4. Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 630 m, wall section – 450 m. Length of wall section – 555 m. Average steepness of wall section – 69°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Peak 4750 (p.LOMO), via the North Ridge, combined route, third ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:

• Length — 1950 m
• Length of sections with II–IV difficulty category — 400 m
• Of which VI difficulty category — 75 m
• Average steepness of the wall section — 64°

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, KTM TV 5.4
3. Peak 4750 (p. LOMO) — via the North Ridge, combined route, first ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Length — 1950 m including: length of 5–6 difficulty category — 400 m, including 6 difficulty category — 75 m. Average steepness of the main part — 64°. Height difference — 1150 m.
6. Pitons driven:

• rock: 46/4
• chocks: 59/0
• bolt: 1/0