Route Description

From the "conical moraine" of the Amanauz glacier, you need to approach the first step of the glacier along its central part. The first step is bypassed under the slopes of the Juguтурлючат massif. After reaching the plateau of the first step, to approach the wall, you need to pass through the icefall. The landmark for the direction of movement is the rocky ridge that limits the icefall along the eastern slope of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The icefall should be traversed along its central part (R1) to the level of the beginning of the rocky ridge, then approach the rocks and along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to the ice falls under the wall of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The approach to the beginning of the route is first along the rocky ridge, then in the central part of the icefall, transition to the wall. A bivouac under the wall can be arranged on one of the terraces of the icefall. The landmark for the beginning of the route is the rusty rocks in the lower part of the wall, cut by a deep groove. There are many stones on the ice in this part, brought down by winter snow from the terrace behind the wall's bend. In the summer, the approach to the wall is practically safe. To exit to the wall, you need to overcome the bergschrund. At the end of July, the bergschrund is greatly torn (R2). Through the "plug," approach the rocks and through the ice cornice back to the rocks.

ASCENT ROUTES TO:

• AMANAUZ UZLOVOY PEAK via W. RIDGE, Cat. 4A diff.
• AMANAUZ (Uzlovoy - Glavny) PEAKS, TRAVERSE, Cat. 4A diff.

Traverse

of the Amanauz and Sofrudju massif with ascent to Dvuzubka via the East wall 6A Team of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "Spartak" Coach and team leader - Master of Sports of the USSR Kavunenko V.D. Moscow 1964

Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of Dvuzubka peak

Dvuzubka peak is located in the mountainous part of the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region of Stavropol Krai. To the east of the Sofrudju snow dome, a sharp decline begins towards the Amanauz Pass saddle, then the ridge rises by more than 250 m, forming a huge three-peak massif:

• Main Amanauz

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Amanaus via the Main route on the East wall (“Dvuzubka”, control and evaluation route by Kavunenko, category 5B), made by the instructors of “Alibek” alpine camp Sorokin A.G. and Akhtyrsky O.A. from August 1 to 4, 1977.

Explanations for the table

The table of main characteristics shows the indicators of the route taken from August 1 to 4, 1977. Leaving the bivouac under the wall on August 1, 1977 at 8:00, the group started moving along the route without prior processing. After the preceding bad weather, the passage of the beginning of the route was difficult due to:

• fresh snow on the rocks;
• flow ice. The wall is lit by the sun from 6:00 to 12:00 and by the end of this time it is practically clear of fresh snow. For insurance and creation of belays, 8 piton hooks hammered in by previously passing groups were used. The group did not hammer in their own pitons, and they consider bending the lugs of the pitons to be impractical. The following groups will have to hammer them in approximately the same places, which will slightly complicate their passage, but will lead to cluttering of the route.

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Amanauz Glavny via the Eastern wall (Dvuzubka, the control and test route by Kavunenko, category 5B) carried out by the instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp consisting of:

• Kovalevsky V.A.,
• Andryushchenko A.V.,
• Bashtinsky A.I. from August 2, 1977, to August 4, 1977.

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE TABLE

R0–R1: start of the route. 0.5 rope length along the smoothed wet rocks of the black slab.

• R1–R2: 1.5 rope lengths ascent to a ledge, traverse left along it, and exit to a spalled rock.
• R2–R3: 0.5 rope length complex climbing, slab-like smoothed rocks, artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), exit into an internal corner. R3–R4: 1.5 rope lengths along the internal corner to the "grotto". Rocks are like "ram's foreheads". Rockfall hazard!

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus, Dombay.
3. Ascent to the summit Amanauz (Dvuzubka) via the east wall 3600 m, category 6A. Kavunenko Route.
4. Height difference of the wall section is 695 m. Total route length is 804 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty is 135 m.
5. Average steepness of the wall section is 62°.
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Ice | Bolt | Chocks | | :--- | :--- | :---- | :------ | | 21+7 | 0 | 25 | 120 |

Ascent Passport 21

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent region

• rock climbing
• Caucasus, 2–2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

3. Peak, its height, and route: Main Dvuzyub (Dvuzubka), ascents

• 3757 m, via the north-eastern slope through the "зеркало" (mirror)

4. Proposed category of mountain difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics

• height difference — 957 m, including 800 m to Dvuzubka peak, average steepness

Route Description

on Mt. Amanauz (Main) via the Northeast Wall, Category 5B difficulty, Bödnik. Western Caucasus from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass. From Dombay Square, follow the right side of the Amanauz River along the trail to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the glacier and then to the "Conical Moraine" of the Amanauz Glacier. Campsite. Route passage:

• From the conical moraine to the second step of the glacier, which is traversed from the left.
• Ascend through the steep middle part of the icefall in the direction of Pravda Peak.
• Upon reaching the level of the lower part of Dvuzyubka's wall, traverse right for 300–400 m under the wall.
• Return to the initial campsite. From Dombay Square — 4–5 hours.

All-Union Council of the DSO Trade Unions Department of Mountaineering Alplager "Dombay"

Caucasus

(2.2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass)

Amanauz Main (Dvuzubka)

3757 m via north-eastern wall through the "mirror"

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Western Caucasus
3. Summit: Amanauz Main, 3757 m via 2-3 wall.
4. Route difficulty category: 5B category
5. Height difference: 880 m
6. Length of sections with IV–VI category difficulty — 450 m Total route length: 1030 m. Average steepness: 60°
7. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons — 68, bolt pitons — 0, use of placed elements — 52
8. Number of travel hours: 26 hours