Report

On the first ascent

on v. Sobor-Skala Gl. (1st tower) from the South

Climbing passport

1. Climbing area, section number according to the 2008 classification table
2. Name of the peak, its height, route name.
3. Proposed:
4. Nature of the route:
5. Height difference of the route: Route length:

Description of the ascent to peak Smidovich via the western counterfort

Group composition

1. Kovalevsky V.A. — II category — leader 2. Shklyaev E.V. — II category — participant 3. Kovalenko Yu.I. — II category — participant 4. Smoglyukov S.E. — II category — participant

First day (approach to the route) May 4, 1973

Departure from the base camp to lake KARDYVACH at 4:00 AM, upstream along the right bank (in the direction of travel) of the VERKHNYAYA MZYMTA river to a group of large boulders under the slopes of peak LAUB EASTERN. Then, upwards to the right along a wide snowy slope with rocky outcrops, exit to a shoulder under peak Severnaya Tsyndyshko (3–3.5 hours from the base camp to the shoulder). From the shoulder, leftwards to a sharp depression in the southwestern ridge of peak SMIDOVICH; CHERNORECHENSKY pass (1 hour). From the pass, descent along a steep snowy slope to the first rocky terrace near peak SMIDOVICH (1.5 hours descent).

DESCRIPTION

ASCENT TO SMIDOVICH PEAK (3359 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE (PHOTO № 1, 2, 3, 4)

Smidovich Peak is located in the Kardyvach Lake area, so the base camp for the ascent is set up near Kardyvach Lake.

Approach to the overnight stay at Smidovich Pass:

• Starts from Kardyvach Lake through the gorge of the Upper Mzymta River to the northern wall of Laub Peak.
• A gentle ascent along the snowy slope goes along the Upper Mzymta River, which is hidden under the snow.
• After 2.5 hours, you should reach a steep southwestern grassy slope overgrown with rhododendron, with small rocky outcrops.
• The ascent to the western cirque of Smidovich Peak and the Tsendyshkho peaks takes 1 hour.
• The path continues across the firn of the cirque, leading to the western edge of Smidovich Peak.

Overnight stay features:

Peak 2900–3000–3010 "Severnye Zubki" Route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" Cat. difficulty 2B (combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV - 2.1 E-mail: ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" 2B cat. difficulty (combined) at the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" 2011 (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Fig. 35. North-west buttress, ridge and summit point of the peak Pyatigorsk with the ascent route (13). Photo by A. Runich. Fig. 37. The summit 1300 years of Bulgaria with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 38. The summit Ak-Airy with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko. Fig. 39. Sketch of the traverse of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Part of the traverse from the beginning of the route to the saddle between the summits Pyatigorsk and 1300 years of Bulgaria (East Ak-Airy pass). Scale 1:5000. In the inset photos: a — view of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Photo by B. Fedorov; b — on the dome of the Ak-Airy summit. Photo by A. Makushenko.

I. Climbing category — rock

2. Climbing area — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskiy ridge between the upper reaches of the Sofia and Psysh rivers.
3. Peak, route — peak "200 years of Pyatigorsk" (proposed by the first ascenders), 3398 m, via the NW buttress and ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A 163 pr. 499
5. Route description — rock, via the buttress with a transition to the ridge, elevation gain — 590 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons driven — 3 rock pitons for protection.
7. Number of climbing hours — from the start of the route to the summit tower 4 hours (group of 6 people).
8. Number of nights — not required on the route.
9. Climbing leader: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports

The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:

• to the west — Naur,
• to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
• Northern Psysh,
• Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
• Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
• 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)

Report

on the ascent to the summit 2839.8 m Pseashkha West via the south-west ridge presumably 1B cat. diff. First ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Area: Western Caucasus, Krasnaya Polyana area, Pslukh valley, section 2.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 2839.8 m Pseashkha West, via the south-west ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 700 m.