The ascent class is rock. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge. The summit, its height, and the ascent route — Eastern, Varzobskaya Pila peak 3600 m via the southeast wall.

Estimated category of difficulty — 4A.

Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 250 m
• Average steepness — 65°
• Length of sections: 1 — m; 2 — m; 3 — 60 m; 4 — 200 m; 5 — 50 m; 6 — m

Pitons driven:

• For belaying — 56
• For creating rock I.T.O. — 53
• Ice — ------
• Bolt — 3

Number of walking hours — 8 hours

Number of nights and their characteristics — overnight stay in the base camp.

Last name, first name, and patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

• Bartenev Vladimir Sergeevich — 1st sports category, leader
• Kozlov Pavel Vladimirovich — CMS
• Vepritsky Sergey Nikolaevich — 1st sports category

Team coach — Lavrukhin V.I. — MS

Date of departure on the route and return — May 25, 1980.

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Map-scheme of the ascent area

Brief description of approaches to the route

From the Kabuty stone quarry, ascend along the grassy slopes towards the saddle in the lowest part of the northeast ridge descending from Varzobskaya Pila peak. Ascend to the upper left edge of the grassy fields along the way. There is a place for overnight stays.

Further, left through a snowfield and simple rocks (300 m), 1–2 category of difficulty, to the base of the wall.

The route begins 60 m to the left of the vertical chimney. The approach from Kabuty to the route takes 5 hours.

Brief explanation for the table

The route passes through the center of the wall, along a clearly defined cleft going vertically upwards.

Section R0–R1. Up the cleft 100 m of complex climbing, especially in the lower part.

Section R1–R2. The wall becomes slightly gentler. The cleft bifurcates. Move along its left branch, sometimes turning into a crack.

Section R2–R3. The crack leads to the base of an overhanging internal corner, which is bypassed on the left along a monolithic wall. Climbing is complex, with small holds.

Section R3–R4. From the top of the internal corner straight up along the steep wall at the base of a small cirque, leading to a saddle between the peak and its right gendarme. Climbing is complex.

Section R4–R5. Along rocks of medium difficulty, exit onto the saddle.

Section R5–R6. From the saddle along the system of ledges on the north wall, exit to the summit.

The descent from the summit is done along the ridge in a westerly direction (20 m) to a clearly defined gap in the ridge. From the gap to the north — into the cirque, veering right, bypassing one counterfort and crossing the second, exit to the saddle in the northeast ridge of Varzobskaya Pila peak. From the saddle straight down along the grassy slopes to Kabuty. The descent from the summit takes 3 hours.

Ascent route