Ecuum

Trident. From the North

Climbing description for Category III route

I. Approaches

The approach to the summit follows the valley next to the Cheryrekh Uchel'ye gorge. Crossing the Maikhura River by fording. There is no trail, and the route goes straight up the valley, through large scree. There is no water visible as it runs under the scree. At the end of the valley, there is a rock wall with gushing water fountains that disappear under the scree 100–150 m below. At this spot, there is a large green meadow suitable for camping. The approach from the road takes 2 hours, with a significant ascent. From the overnight camp, one can pass the wall with fountains (the rocks are easy, with shelves) and reach the glacier cirque.

II. Ascent

up 536 21.0289 Part 1 1036 1046 Ascent Report Climb Category: Combined Ascent Area: Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuh spur. Peak, its height, and ascent route:

• Peak Surkh-Nu via the central counterfort of the southeastern wall
• Height: 2980 m Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: 680 m elevation gain, average slope 45° Section Lengths:
• 1: 800 m

1. Climbing category — winter ascent
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range, Sur-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Surkh-Nu peak (2980 m) via the right counterfort, left part of the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 880 m, average steepness: wall section — 56°, ridge — 30°–35°, section lengths: 1st difficulty category — 500 m, 2nd difficulty category — 330 m, 3rd difficulty category — 180 m, 4th difficulty category — 70 m, 5th difficulty category — 0 m, 6th difficulty category — 0 m.
6. Pitons used: rock 10 (0), ice 0 (0), bolted 0 (0), chocks 6 (0).
7. Number of climbing hours — 6 (not including approach to the wall 4 hours and descent from the summit 2 hours).
8. Number of nights, their characteristics — one in the base camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
   1. Kashina Olga Gennadievna CMS

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — winter ascents.
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Surkh-Nu (2980) via the central counterfort of the left part of the SE wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference –880 m average steepness: wall section –50° ridge –20° section lengths:

1. Climbing category — winter ascents.
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range, Surkh-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Surkh-Nu peak (2980 m) via the left counterfort, left part of the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 880 m, average steepness of the wall section — 56°, ridge — 30–35°; section lengths: R1 — 500 m, R2 — 240 m, R3 — 260 m, R4 — 85 m, R5 — 15 m, R6 — .
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying for creating anchor points rock 18 pcs. ice —

103

I. Climbing category - winter ascent 2. Climbing area - Issarsky Ridge Orog. Surkh-Nukh 3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Surkh-Nu, 2980 m, via the Southwest ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 40°–50°, length of sections R1–20 m, R2–70 m, R3–60 m, R4–…–m, R5–…–m, R6–…–m. 6. Number of pitons driven: For belaying: rock 10, ice, drilled. For creating ITO: 7. Number of travel hours - 9–10 h

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — winter ascents
2. Ascent area: Gissarsky ridge, Surkh-Kukh spur
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Surkh-Nu (2980) via South-West ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 30–35°
6. Length of sections: I — 960 m, II — 80 m, III — m, IV — m, V — m, VI — m.
7. Pitons driven: rock — 0

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — Winter ascents.
2. Ascent region — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuz spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Surkh-Nu (2980 m) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 1B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1380 m, average slope 30°–35°, length of sections: R1 — ... m, R2 — 2500 m, R3 — ... m, R4 — ... m, R5 — ... m, R6 — ... m.
6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category

• technical

2. Ascent area

• Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route

• p. Studencheskaya 3792 m, via W wall.

4. Estimated category of difficulty

• 5A

5. Route characteristics