Alay Mountains

Mountain range24,484.34 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent via the northern bastion of the eastern ridge of Tekelik peak (5080 m) in the Alay Range, category 5B, second ascent.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical category
  2. Alayskiy ridge (Pamir-Alay)
  3. v. Tekelik via the northern bastion of the eastern ridge
  4. Proposed 5B cat. diff., second ascent
  5. Height difference of the wall sections R0–R13 — 440 m, R23–R32 — 255 m; length of sections R0–R13 — 505 m, R23–R32 — 335 m
  6. Pitons hammered in
    • rock 87
    • drilled 0
    • chocks 13
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Description of a technical ascent to the summit of Tekelik (5080 m) via the Northeast Ridge, category 5B difficulty, climbed by a group of climbers in 1977.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kок-Су valley. 3. Tekelik Peak, 5080 m, NE edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 5080–5820 = 1260 m, length of technically difficult sections 540 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Protection: 63 rock anchors, 29 ice screws, 23 rappel rings with carabiners. 7. Total climbing time: 23 hours. 8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs, good conditions.

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Traversing six peaks of the Altai Range: Suyen Peak, Tereshkova Peak, Bykovsky Peak, Popovich Peak, Nikolaev Peak, Gagarin Peak, category of difficulty 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: traverse.
  2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Altai ridge: Kok-Su valley.
  3. Traverse of peaks: Sons 4950 m — Tereshkova 4870 m — Bykovsky 4840 m — Popovich 4800 m — Nikolaev 4900 m — Gagarin 4850 m.
  4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1330 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m, average steepness.
  6. Pitons used for passage: Rock pitons — 67, ice pitons — none.
  7. Total hours of climbing — 34.5.
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Ascent to the summit of Syinovya Peak (5100 m) via the southwestern counterfort and southern ridge, category of difficulty 4.5A.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION CLIMBING ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Alai Ridge.
  3. Peak "Sыnovey", 5100 m, via the southwest buttress and south ridge.
  4. Category 5A difficulty.
  5. Elevation gain of the route 800 m, length of 5th category
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Sinovyi, 5100 m, via the central counterfort of the northwest wall, category 5A difficulty.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Region: Pamir-Alay
  3. Peak: Pik Synovey, 5100 m, via the central buttress of the southwest wall
  4. Difficulty category: 5A
  5. Route characteristics: rock climbing, elevation gain — 650 m, average slope — 65°, section lengths: 1 — none, 2 — none, 3 — 320 m, 4 — 260 m, 5 — 170 m, 6 — 5 m
  6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock 52, ice 0, bolted 0 for creating artificial holds: rock 2, ice 0, bolted 0
  7. Climbing time: 11 hours
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Description of the ascent route to the Severny summit of Pik Skalisty via the NNE edge, difficulty category 5B, climbed by the MVO team in 1981.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, southern spurs of the Alay ridge, Kemisdykty glacier.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Skalny North summit, 4421 m, via NNE edge.
  4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: rock climbing. — height difference — 950 m, — average steepness: — wall part: 66°,
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Description of a 5B category complexity route to the North summit of peak Skalniy via the "mirror" of the East face in the Kemisdikty gorge of the Alay ridge.

I. Climbing category - rock 2. Climbing area - Kemisdikty gorge, southern spurs of the Alay ridge. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route - Northern peak of Pik Skalny, via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall, 4421 m. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route - 870 m, height difference of the wall section - 750 m, "mirror" 500 m, average steepness of the wall section - 87°, length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty - 690 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying / for ITO rock 98 / 13, bolted 0 / 4, "heavenly" 0 / 6, chocks 14 / 17 7. Number of climbing hours - 29 hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics:

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Climbing route description for Peak Skal'ny (4480 m) via the South-West wall and North ridge, category 36, in Pamir-Alay.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m. average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections:
    • I — 800 m.
    • II — 680 m.
    • III — 515 m.
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Description of the first ascent of Peak 4480.5 m in the Apay-Tau ridge via the snowy ridge, complexity category 2B, 8.5 walking hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area: Alaisky ridge, Keksu river area.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 4480.5 m, via the southern ridge (first ascent).
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category of difficulty.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; rocky route; length of sections 5–6 km/tr; average steepness — 35°–40°.
  6. Pitons driven: for belay for creating artificial holding points. Rock — Ice — Bolt —
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Ascent to Peak Solevoi (4770 m) via the northwest ridge, grade 3B, height difference 750 m, 15 hours of climbing time.

Ascent Log

To the summit of Peak Solieva (4770 m) via the Northwest Ridge.

  1. Ascent category: technical.
  2. Ascent area: Alai Range, Kok-Su gorge.
  3. Peak: Peak Solieva (4770 m) via the Northwest Ridge.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 750 m; section lengths: 5th cat. diff. – 30 m,
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