Kodori Range

Description of the traverse of the peaks 60 let KChAO, Peshchera, Septemvri and Kelbesh in the Western Caucasus, difficulty category 3A, climbed in January 1982.

| Characteristic | Value | | :---------------------------- | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | CLIMB CLASS | traverse | | CLIMB AREA | Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Psyysh and Sofiya rivers | | PEAK ROUTE | 60 let KChAO, Peshtera, Septemvri (proposed by the first ascenders), Kelbashi | | ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY | 3A (winter) | | ROUTE DESCRIPTION | – Rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute altitude difference 643 m | | NUMBER OF PITOONS | 12 | | NUMBER OF TRAVERSE HOURS | 12 hours (from the start of the route to the summit of Kelbashi) |

Description of traversing the ridge with ascents to the Kara-Jash and other peaks, complexity category 3.4, with illustrations and route excerpts.

Bugaratov Ksenets, Arasi, Valia Orgenei Vershye — 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E), Kara-Dezhi (3171), 3178 — 3201 (NRB), 3226 (Turgene, Denisphona) (3227) Route: "Tramers mershin 2006 (Kara-Dezhi N-E) — Kara-Dezhi (3171) 3178 — 3201 (NRB)" Krovec, Illyandota, 44 c.c. (Klaboporgonizsy) Photo from balia Orgenei — Third section promerce — route 3.4 c.c. passing the central part of the traverse — Kara-Jash — 3170 — 3201 (NRB)

A description of the 4A category climbing route along the Kara-Jash ridge in the Western Caucasus, with a detailed description of the path, obstacles, and necessary techniques.

Passport Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226 Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south

Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi via the South-Eastern Edge, a Category 2A climb, with a detailed description of the route and technical details.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024 I. Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :------ | :------------------------------------------------------ | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Solovei Aleksei Igorevich, Master of Sports | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Belyaev Vladimir Viktorovich, badge holderVoinov Alexander Alexandrovich, 2nd sports rankLovushkin Aleksei Nikolaevich, 3rd sports rankProkopchuk Dmitry Igorevich, badge holder |

Report on the first ascent of Tegelenbashi peak via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B difficulty level, in the Caucasus.

Report On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi Via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B (approximately) complexity AM LLC "Alpine Camps Management" "ADYL-SU 2022" October 31, 2022 I. Ascent Passport | №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | | | :--------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports |

Report on the first ascent of Category 1B route via the southern edge of Teegeneklibashi peak (3502 m) in the Baksan gorge of the Caucasus.

Report On the first ascent to the summit of Tegeneklibashi via the South Ridge, category 1B (approximately) AM OOO "Alpine Camps Management" "Adyl-Su 2022" December 15, 2022 I. Ascent Passport | № | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :--: | :--: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports |

**Category 4B climb via the West face of the South ridge of Shtavler peak**, a combined route with a detailed description from the village of Nakra to the summit.

Shtavler via the West wall of the South ridge (combined route, V. Kozyavkina, cat. 4B, fig. 32, 44). From the village of Nakra, follow the road to the first stream. Here, turn left and ascend through the forest, grassy slopes, and scree of the Southeast ridge of Shtavler peak. Then traverse left across the southern grassy slopes of Shtavler to reach the col of the South ridge. From the col, descend to the Zapadny Shtavler glacier. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the glacier below the West wall of Shtavler. From the moraine, approach the right side of the West wall of Shtavler peak via the glacier. From the glacier, ascend a steep snowy slope to the right of two rock ridges, then via large scree and easy rocks up and left to the top of the right rock ridge. From the ridge, ascend a snowy slope, then 12–15 m of monolithic, above-average difficulty rocks of the wall to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend up and left 18–20 m via a difficult wall. Then 10–12 m up a difficult corner leads to the next ledge. From the ledge, ascend 80–120 m up smoothed, moderately difficult slabs to a snow patch, and from there to a platform on a snowy rock ridge. From the platform, ascend 30–40 m up the ridge to below overhanging rocks. Below the wall, traverse right and ascend 200–250 m up heavily broken, tiled rocks of moderate difficulty (“live” rocks) to a platform on the ridge below the wall. Bivouac. From the moraine, 6–8 hours. From the platform, ascend 50 m up a difficult wall to inclined slabs. Ascend 30–40 m up the slabs. Continue up easy snowy rocks of the ridge, then 150–200 m up a steep ice-and-snow ridge (avalanches) to below the right side of the overhanging rocks of the West wall. From here, ascend 200–250 m up broken rocks of moderate difficulty (rocks, “live” rocks) with snowy sections to the South ridge of Shtavler (cairn). From the bivouac on the West wall, 5–6 hours.

Ascent to Shtavler peak via South-eastern ridge, complexity category 2A, combined route.

Shtavler via the Southeast Ridge (route is combined, category 2A, fig. 32, 44). From the Nakra village upwards (to the west) through the forest, then across grassy slopes, further across scree to reach the areas under the ascent of the Eastern gendarme of the Southwest Ridge of Shtavler peak. Initial bivouac. From Nakra village 4–5 hours. From the areas, via easy simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge, ascent to the Eastern gendarme. From the gendarme, a simple descent onto a snowy plateau. Via simple destroyed snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge ascend to the summit of Shtavler. From the initial bivouac 4–5 hours.

Description of the category 1B route to the summit of Gvergishi Sher via the North ridge with path details and estimated ascent time.

Gvergishisher via North Ridge (rocky route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32). From the village of Nakra, follow the trail up the left slope of the gorge. Then turn left and ascend along the stream to the left-bank moraine of the Gvergishisher Glacier. From the moraine, move up the glacier to the left. From the upper left corner of the glacier, ascend easy, heavily fragmented rocks of the couloir, then 150–160 m of straightforward steep rocks (belaying required) up to the North Ridge of Gvergishisher. Here, turn left and follow easy, straightforward rocks of the wide North Ridge; then ascend a 20–25-meter straightforward rock pitch to the summit of Gvergishisher. 2.5–3 hours from the moraine.

The traverse of the Kikchinekol peaks (eastern and western) is a challenging route that includes glaciers, steep slopes, and rocks, requiring specialized equipment and precise timing.

Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m Traverse in both directions — category 3A From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays". From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass. From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau. From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!! From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay! After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks. From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.