upper gentle part. Then along the snowy slope for about 1000 m to the Pirokaya saddle — to the lowest point of the ridge between the Unremarkable (Sharilya) and Warsaw peaks. The ascent route to the peak goes along the ridge leading from the Unremarkable (Sharilya) peak to Warsaw. The first elevation on the ridge is bypassed on the left along the snow. Then:

• along the gentle snowy ridge to the first ascent of 50 m (steepness 50°); the ascent is overcome head-on;
• a gentle and sharp snowy ridge of 50 m leads to the second ascent of about 10 m, which is also passed head-on on snow;
• after 30 m of snowy ridge, the exit is under the rocky summit — a tower. From under the tower:
• 40 m along the névé — ice with a steepness of about 50° with rock exits;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area — High-altitude Matcha node, Turkestan Range.
3. Ascent route — Peak Fedchenko 5400 m, via the West ridge through the Ice Dome.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1010 m, average steepness of the rocky ridge — 75°, ice slope — 55°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 28,

Peak "Tsempti Khergiani" (4960 m) from the Purovsky glacier on August 8, 1969. Category 4B. Peak Tsempti Khergiani is located in the cirque of the Purovsky glacier, in the ridge between the OPTZ and "4600" passes, being the second (after p. Turnsiat) peak from the "4600" pass. The path from the assault camp to the Purovsky glacier initially goes down along the right part of the glacier along the lateral moraine. After passing the steep part of the glacier, it is necessary to cross it, orienting towards the end of the rock mass descending from the ridge between the OPTZ pass and Kharsang. The rock mass is bypassed on the right at the bottom along the moraines. Then, there is an exit to the snowfields leading to the cirque. onto the slope of peak "Tsempti Khergiani". On the moraine in the upper part of the glacier along the slopes of the peak - an overnight stay. From the base camp to the overnight stay, it takes 3.5-4 hours. From the overnight stay, ascend along the snowy slope to a large rocky island formed by two wide couloirs. Upwards along the simple and medium rocks of the island, then exit onto the snow and along the snow-ice slope (avalanche danger) with a steepness of up to 45° (ice hooks) straight up to the right snow shoulder of the peak. On the shoulder, under the gendarme, there is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the bivouac on the moraine, it takes about 4 hours. From the shoulder, along the snow cornice (cornice), bypassing a large stone on the right, exit under the snow-ice board. Opening it from the left, ascend along the chimney (3 m) to the slopes of the lower part of the wall.

Up the icy edge of the couloir 60–70 m to the entrance to the lower edge of the inclined ice shelf running across the wall. On crampons straight up (10 m). Further exit to rocks with ice crust. The path along complex rocks (35 m) left-up (piton, wedges) to a shelf convenient for belay and changing the leader. Then 20 meters up snow and ice to the base of the chimney. The steep chimney has walls filled with ice at the bottom. 20 meters of complex Climbing leads to the expansion of the chimney under the overhanging five-meter icicles. From this place to the left along the inclined fragile rock shelf 40 m to the exit to the eastern slope of the summit. Here the whole group can gather. Further up 40 m along medium and complex rocks to the Eastern summit. The cairn is located on the Central summit. The path from the Eastern to the Central summit runs along the ridge connecting them and does not present any technical difficulty. From the bivouac on the shoulder to the summit — 9–10 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the expansion of the chimney under the icicles. Further down — 3 ropes belaying down to the intersection of the main couloir. From the left edge of the couloir — one rope belaying down to the base of the wall. Further — worse, descent along the ascent route. From the summit: 5–6 hours. A variant of descent from the shelf under the summit straight down is possible if there are 80 m ropes. Descent from the shoulder and return to the assault camp takes 5–6 hours.

N

Alpinist camp "Alay" 1983. Class of technical ascents.

Report

on the ascent to the summit 5090 m (peak Admiralteets) via the North-Eastern buttress of the Eastern ridge (first ascent). Team of MGS DSO "Zenit". Moscow city council DSO "Zenit": Moscow A-40, p.o. box 545, phone 214–20–65 Team leader: Makhovetskiy Alexander Borisovich. Address: 105122, Moscow, Nikitinskaya st., house 14, building 1, apt. 69. Phone: 164–21–08 Team coach: Kozlov Yuriy Evgenievich. Address: 125414, Moscow, Petrozavodskaya st., house 24, building 2, apt. 115. Phone: 453–96–14 Heights in the report were determined as follows:

• Peak heights - according to the map.
• Heights on the Ak-Su glacier - using an altimeter.

Ascent Log

1. Class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
3. Ascent object — Peak "5090" (Admiralteets) via NE wall, V grade
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 790 m, route length — 976 m, including U–UІ — 367 m UІ — 65 m Average steepness of the route — 55°. Average steepness of the main section of the route (4500–4990) — 59°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Aksu valley.
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via NE buttress of E ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5B (assumed).
5. Route characteristics — combined (rock and ice). Height difference — 650 m. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 280 m. 6th difficulty category — 85 m.

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak "5090" (Adimireteev) via the North-Eastern buttress of the Eastern ridge. 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent ¹). 5. Elevation gain — 790 m, length — 976 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 361 m, including 65 m of 6 category. Average steepness of the route — 55°. Average steepness of the main section of the route (4500–4990) — 59. 6. Pitons driven ²): rock 89 16 chocks 36 3 ice 34 0

Ascent Report

Irkutsk Team Ascent of Admiralteets peak 5090 m via North Face. August 9, 2012 Approximate difficulty category: 5B

Irkutsk, 2012

Ascent Details

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley. Section number according to the classification table: 5.4.2.
2. Peak Admiralteets 5090 m (peak coordinates: 39°34′16.68″ N, 70°02′17.18″ E), via North Face