Peak "Tsempti Khergiani" (4960 m) from the Purovsky glacier on August 8, 1969. Category 4B.

Peak Tsempti Khergiani is located in the cirque of the Purovsky glacier, in the ridge between the OPTZ and "4600" passes, being the second (after p. Turnsiat) peak from the "4600" pass.

The path from the assault camp to the Purovsky glacier initially goes down along the right part of the glacier along the lateral moraine. After passing the steep part of the glacier, it is necessary to cross it, orienting towards the end of the rock mass descending from the ridge between the OPTZ pass and Kharsang. The rock mass is bypassed on the right at the bottom along the moraines. Then, there is an exit to the snowfields leading to the cirque.

onto the slope of peak "Tsempti Khergiani". On the moraine in the upper part of the glacier along the slopes of the peak - an overnight stay. From the base camp to the overnight stay, it takes 3.5-4 hours.

From the overnight stay, ascend along the snowy slope to a large rocky island formed by two wide couloirs. Upwards along the simple and medium rocks of the island, then exit onto the snow and along the snow-ice slope (avalanche danger) with a steepness of up to 45° (ice hooks) straight up to the right snow shoulder of the peak. On the shoulder, under the gendarme, there is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the bivouac on the moraine, it takes about 4 hours.

From the shoulder, along the snow cornice (cornice), bypassing a large stone on the right, exit under the snow-ice board. Opening it from the left, ascend along the chimney (3 m) to the slopes of the lower part of the wall.

Along the crack 30 m upwards to the right (along the route) edge of the wall, overhanging the ice couloir. Then along the ledges 15-20 m left-upwards to the exit onto the right slope of the rocky couloir, cutting the wall diagonally.