upper gentle part. Then along the snowy slope for about 1000 m to the Pirokaya saddle — to the lowest point of the ridge between the Unremarkable (Sharilya) and Warsaw peaks. The ascent route to the peak goes along the ridge leading from the Unremarkable (Sharilya) peak to Warsaw.

The first elevation on the ridge is bypassed on the left along the snow. Then:

• along the gentle snowy ridge to the first ascent of 50 m (steepness 50°); the ascent is overcome head-on;
• a gentle and sharp snowy ridge of 50 m leads to the second ascent of about 10 m, which is also passed head-on on snow;
• after 30 m of snowy ridge, the exit is under the rocky summit — a tower.

From under the tower:

• 40 m along the névé — ice with a steepness of about 50° with rock exits;
• further along the rocky-ice gully with a steepness of about 70°, they rise to the icy slope;
• along the left wall on snow, passage in the narrowing between rocks, then — steep ice in the form of a large depression.

The depression is traversed to the right — upwards:

• first, a few meters on ice 50°;
• then along a vertical snowy wall.

The wall leads to a snowy slope, along the edge of which they rise 30 m to the summit — a rocky tower.

After 5 meters of easy rocks, they exit under a slab: in the lower part — vertical (3 m), further — several shelves (7 m). The slab is passed along a crack, which leads under a vertical wall.

Then:

• traverse 15 meters to the right with a descent along a rocky shelf to its end;
• then up — a few meters to the next shelf under the overhanging rock of the summit block.

Through the block, using artificial holds (hanging laddies, ladders), another 5 meters — to the summit.

Ascent from the saddle takes 10 hours. Descent via the ascent route. To the snowy ridge Dalber, then via the ascent route to the saddle and further to the upper part of the Myслимое glacier. Then to the lake and to the Kurovsky valley.

Notes:

• The length of the snowy ridge from the saddle is about 800 m.
• The length of the rocky-icy part is about 200 m.
• The average slope of the rocky-icy part is 60°.