Alay Mountains

Ascent by the MGS DSO "Spartak" team to Peak 4200 "Little Prince" via the Western wall edge in 1981, difficulty category 5A.

Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alay: Alay Ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. 4200 "Little Prince" via the edge of the West Wall Estimated difficulty category: 5A – 550 m – total Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m (wall section); average steepness – 65°; section lengths: total: 1070 m, including 2nd category of difficulty – 450 m, 3rd category of difficulty – 80 m, 4th category of difficulty – 256 m, 5th category of difficulty – 254 m, 6th category of difficulty – 30 m. Pitons driven: for belaying: chocks — 28 rock — 46 ice — 0

The route is category 1B complexity to the top of Surtoo via the South ridge, 2000 m long, ascent time is 2.5-3 hours.

Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours. From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit): Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge. Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River. Go around a green hill with an arch forest. In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours. Ascent: From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine. On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.

Description of the ascent route to the Tepin-Tyai peak (Paniro-Ryay ridge) with a difficulty category of 2B via a rocky ridge.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent class — Rock climbing Ascent area, Pamir-Alay range, Kikik-Alai ridge Peak — Gelin-Tash Height — 3900 m Ascent route — via the southern ridge Proposed difficulty category — 2–6 Route characteristics: Height difference — 650 m

Description of a technical ascent to the summit of Tekelik (5080 m) via the Northeast Ridge, category 5B difficulty, climbed by a group of climbers in 1977.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent classification: technical. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kок-Су valley. Tekelik Peak, 5080 m, NE edge. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. Route characteristics: height difference 5080–5820 = 1260 m, length of technically difficult sections 540 m, average steepness 60°. Protection: 63 rock anchors, 29 ice screws, 23 rappel rings with carabiners. Total climbing time: 23 hours. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs, good conditions.

### Description of the First Ascent of Peak Zvezdny (4,780 m) in the Alay Range of Pamir-Alay via the Northwest Ridge, Category 4A Difficulty.

Ascent Passport Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Peak Zvezdny 4780 m (approximately via NW ridge). First ascent. Category 4A difficulty. Height difference — 800 m. Section 5 — 40 m. Average slope 45°. Pitons driven: rock — 35 ice — 10 Ascent 14 hours. Overnight on the pre-summit ridge. On fine rubble. Leader — Perlov Mikhail Semenovich, 2nd sports category.

Description of the 3A category complexity route to the summit LVO (4003 m) via the Southwest ridge in the Djoldjilga gorge, including the approach path and technical details.

LVO The peak named after the Leningrad Military District (LVO) with a height of 4003 m was named by the army climbers of Leningrad in 1974. The rocky tower of the peak completes a short spur of the Southern ridge of the Karagoy peak in the Joljilga gorge. In the Joljilga gorge, LVO is flanked by steep walls and ridges, while the Ruchyev and East-Karagoy cirques have short, ruined rocky slopes, beneath which lie small, moraine-covered glaciers of the same name. The northern short ridge and southern walls await their first ascenders. LVO via the Southwest Ridge, category 3A (M. Levin et al., August 12, 1982). LVO via the Northeast Wall, category 4A (A. Gaas, Yu. Gavrikov, S. Fedorov, O. Khudyakov, July 27-30, 1974; G. Sidorov, N. Andreev, V. Vidyakin, V. Nadein, August 10, 1977). LVO via the Eastern Ridge, category 4B (G. Rozhalskaya, V. Kirillov, B. Kozlov, G. Semenyuta, August 7, 1977; A. Tarasenko et al., 1983). LVO via the Southwest Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 61, 62, 72). Length — 450 m, H — 200 m, time — 4–5 hours.

Climbing route description to "Legendarnaia Magnitka" peak (4632 m) with photos of key sections of the path.

Photo #5. Section R2–R3. Shooting point Ф5. Photo #7. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф7. Photo #6. Section R3–R4. Shooting point Ф6. Photo #8. Beginning of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф8. Photo #9. Upper part of section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф9. Photo #10. On section R4–R5. Shooting point Ф10. Photo #11. Section R5–R6. Shooting point Ф11. Photo #12. Beginning of section R6–R7. Shooting point Ф12.

Ascent route to Peak XXII Olimpiady (4470 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall in Altai, categorized as 5-6 difficulty grade.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class - rock Ascent area, ridge - Archa-Kanysh gorge, Altai ridge Peak, its height, ascent route - peak XXII Olympiad, 4470 m, via the left part of the eastern wall. Proposed difficulty category - 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain - 750 m of which: eastern wall - 455 m length of sections - 550 m 5B-6B difficulty category

Ascent to the summit 4824 m via the North-Eastern ridge, grade 4A, combined route with an altitude difference of 950 m.

ASCENT DOCUMENT Ascent class — technical. Ascent area, ridge — Koksu tract area, Alai ridge, Kemisdykty glacier cirque. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4824, via north-eastern ridge. Proposed difficulty category — 4A. Route characteristics: route — combined; height difference — 950 m; length of sections 5–6;

Traversing six peaks of the Altai Range: Suyen Peak, Tereshkova Peak, Bykovsky Peak, Popovich Peak, Nikolaev Peak, Gagarin Peak, category of difficulty 5A.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: traverse. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Altai ridge: Kok-Su valley. Traverse of peaks: Sons 4950 m — Tereshkova 4870 m — Bykovsky 4840 m — Popovich 4800 m — Nikolaev 4900 m — Gagarin 4850 m. Estimated difficulty category: 5A. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1330 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m, average steepness. Pitons used for passage: Rock pitons — 67, ice pitons — none. Total hours of climbing — 34.5.