Central Greater Himalaya
Route Description: правой части В стены
Report on the first ascent of the "Two Arrows Flight" route, category 6A, on the right part of the eastern wall of Lhotse Shar in the Himalayas.
Federation of Alpinism and Climbing of Ukraine
Report on the ascent of Lobuche East, 6119 m, via the right part of the eastern wall ("Two Arrows Flight"), 6A category. Team report from the Odessa Alpine Club
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical.
- Location of the peak: Himalayas, Sagarmatha National Park, Solu Khumbu region
- Peak name: Lobuche (Lobuje, Lobuche) East, 6119 m
- Route: via the right part of the eastern wall ("Two Arrows Flight")
- Complexity category: 6A (proposed)
- Route type: combined
Route Description: кулуару СЗ стены
Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Lhotse (8516 m) via the northwest wall couloir in the Himalayas in 2013.
ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM FEDERATION
St. Petersburg High-Altitude Climbing Cup 2013
DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO LHOTSE MAIN (8516 m) VIA THE NORTHWEST FACE COULoir, 5B category
St. Petersburg Team
Team Captain: Viktor Aleksandrovich Koval Team Coaches:
- Tatyana Ivanovna Timoshenko
- Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov
Ascent Passport
- Himalayas, section 10.1 of the mountain route classifier
Route Description: с запада
Description of the first ascent to the summit of Jotse Middle (8414 m) along the Eastern Ridge in the Himalayas, category of complexity 6B, a combined route of 10550 m.
Ascent Passport
- Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range, section 10.1.
- Lhotse Middle Peak, 8414 m via the East Ridge
- Assumed 6B cat. diff., first ascent
- Route type: combined
- Route elevation gain: 3100 m. Route length: 10550 m. Length of sections with 5–6B cat. diff.: 210 m. Average slope:
- Main part of the route — 29°
Route Description: Ю ребру
First ascent of Lhotse Shar (8386 m) South-East Ridge by Russian team in 1998 via route 6B cat. diff.
Passport
- High-altitude technical category
- Central Himalayas. Main Himalayan Range
- Lhotse Shar peak (8386 m) via the South-East ridge
- 6B category of difficulty (tentative), first ascent
- Elevation gain: 3036 m, length 5460 m Average slope of the route — 36°
- Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: |
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the ascent route to Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category III-IV (or 5B in Russian grading, ED in IFAS grading), completed in 1996 without the use of oxygen.
Passport
I. Class of ascents — high-altitude technical 2. Region — Himalayas 3. Peak MAKALU (8463 m) via NW ridge, combined route 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2663 m (5800–8463 m), distance — 6200 m Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 900 m Average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons driven: rock 43, chocks 52, ice screws 18, snow stakes 12
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the ascent of Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category 6A, with a description of the tactics and technical details of the route.
Ascent Passport
- Category — High-altitude technical
- Himalayas, Barun river gorge
- Makalu (8463 m) via Northwest Ridge
- Proposed category: 6A
- Elevation gain: 2663 m; Distance: 7950 m. Average slope: main part of the route (above bergschrund) — 27°, entire route — 20° | 6. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :----------------: | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: | | 15 | 20 | 30 | 12 | 0 |
Route Description: З стене
First ascent of the west wall of Makalu (8463 m) in alpine style by a combined route of 6B cat. of diff.
Passport
- High-altitude class.
- Central Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range.
- Makalu Peak (8463 m) via the West Face.
- Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 2663 m; route length: 3920 m. Length of sections:
- 5th category of difficulty — 530 m;
- 6th category of difficulty — 640 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: с севера
Ascent of Mt. Manaslu (Himalayas, 8163 m) via the classic northern route, category 5A, made in September 2013.
Ascent Log
- Region of ascent: Himalayas, sec. 10.1 RCRTM 2011
- Mt. Manaslu, 8163 m, from the north ("classic")
- Difficulty category: 5A.
- Route characteristics — ice and snow.
- Elevation gain: 3363 m Route length: approx. 10,000 m Average slope: main part of the route — 30°; entire route — 25°
- Pitons left on the route: none
- Team's moving hours: 27 h, 3.5 days.
Route Description: с севера
Report on the team's ascent to the summit of Manaslu (8163 m) from the north via the classic route of 5A category of difficulty.
Russian Alpine Championship
High-altitude category
Report
ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU (8163 m) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, 5A category of difficulty, BY THE "FALENOBLASTI" TEAM, FROM 23.09.2023 TO 28.09.2023
2023
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
Route Description: с севера
Report on the ascent of a team to the summit of Manaslu (8163 m) from the north via a snow-ice route of 5A category of difficulty.
RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP
in the high-altitude class
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU PEAK (8163) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY, BY THE "FA LENOBLASTI" TEAM FROM SEPTEMBER 23, 2023 TO SEPTEMBER 28, 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Kruglov Oleg Sergeevich, 1st sports rank, Cherdantsev Alexey Igorevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |