Southwestern Pamir

North Shugnanskiy ridge

p. Vodzh (5434)

First ascent route 3A cat. diff. by E. slope, combined 600 m, 40°, 360/m, 100/Tv, 7 pitches, 3 belays, 6 hours Tarkhanov V.G. Samokotin Yu.T. Svyazin G.F. Rublev V.P. Elgin V.M. Petrov E.A. August 13, 1983

Brief description of the approach to the route

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pgo — Western Pamir, Severo-Shugnanskiy ridge 3. Peak-Vodj, 5434 m, via the eastern ridge, combined 4. Proposed category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average slope — 40°, length of sections of category III — 360 m, category IV — 100 m 6. Pitons used: - for belaying for standing belay rock — 7 - ice — 3 - bolt —

Ascent Log

1. Class — ALPINE-TECHNICAL
2. Ascent Region — SOUTHWEST PAMIR SHUGNAN RANGE
3. Object — peak VODJ 5434 m
4. Route — via the left part of the north face ice-snow first ascent
5. Proposed difficulty category — 5A
6. Height difference: 864 m — total (by altimeter)

Ascent Passport

1. Class — High-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley
3. Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice
5. Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080)
6. Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —

Ascent Passport

1. CATEGORY — High-altitude technical
2. REGION — South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range
3. PEAK — Vodzh peak 5434 m first ascent via the counterfort of the northeastern wall
4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1065 m LENGTH of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m. AVERAGE slope — 62°.
6. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying: For creating ITO

The First RSFSR Climbing Championship

1983

First Ascent Category

Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee

• captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A.
• coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — North Shugnanskiy ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Dzheraim 5329 m via the left counterfort of the eastern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1760 m average steepness — 56° length of sections: I — none, II — 800 m, III — none, IV — 810 m, V — 440 m, VI — 90 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Technical Class. 2. South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge. 3. Traverse of peaks Dzhirain (5329 m) and 5100 m with ascent to peak Dzhirain via the South-East buttress. 4. Estimated difficulty category 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m (Dzhirain), 400 m (p. 5100) section length:

• total 3500 m
• 5th category 325 m