Shughnon Range

Description of the traverse of Jirayn and 5100 m peaks in the Southwestern Pamir via a Category 5B difficulty level route.

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Technical Class. South-West Pamir, Shugnan Ridge. Traverse of peaks Dzhirain (5329 m) and 5100 m with ascent to peak Dzhirain via the South-East buttress. Estimated difficulty category 5B. Route characteristics: height difference: 1400 m (Dzhirain), 400 m (p. 5100) section length: total 3500 m 5th category 325 m

Ascent to the peak Dikerim (5329 m) via the left buttress of the eastern wall in the North Shugnan Range, difficulty category 5B.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technical Ascent area — North Shugnanskiy ridge Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Dzheraim 5329 m via the left counterfort of the eastern wall Proposed difficulty category — 5B Route characteristics: height difference — 1760 m average steepness — 56° length of sections: I — none, II — 800 m, III — none, IV — 810 m, V — 440 m, VI — 90 m. Pitons hammered:

The Chelyabinsk team made the first ascent of Vozh Peak via the spur of the northeast wall during the I RSFSR Alpine Climbing Championship in 1983, with the route rated as Category 5B.

The First RSFSR Climbing Championship 1983 First Ascent Category Peak Vodzh 5434 m via the counterfort of the northeast wall (first ascent) Team of the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Committee captain — Kaigorodtsev S.A. coach — Tarkhanov V.G. 454043, Chelyabinsk, Revolution Square, 4, room 96 chairman of the regional sports committee — Vanitkin Gennady Vasilyevich,

First ascent of Vozh Peak (5434 m) via the spur of the northeast face, 5B difficulty category, Pamir, Shugnanskiy Range.

Ascent Passport CATEGORY — High-altitude technical REGION — South-Western Pamir, Shugnan Range PEAK — Vodzh peak 5434 m first ascent via the counterfort of the northeastern wall PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1065 m LENGTH of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m. AVERAGE slope — 62°. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying: For creating ITO

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Vozh (5434 m) via the North face through the Marsh Mira pass, difficulty category 5A.

Ascent Passport Class — High-altitude technical South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080) Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —

Ascent to Vozh Peak (5434 m) via the left part of the northern wall, difficulty category 5A, elevation gain 864 m, route length 1070 m.

Ascent Log Class — ALPINE-TECHNICAL Ascent Region — SOUTHWEST PAMIR SHUGNAN RANGE Object — peak VODJ 5434 m Route — via the left part of the north face ice-snow first ascent Proposed difficulty category — 5A Height difference: 864 m — total (by altimeter)

Ascent to the top of Vodzh peak (5434 m) along the eastern ridge, a combined route of 3A category of complexity in the Western Pamir.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pgo — Western Pamir, Severo-Shugnanskiy ridge Peak-Vodj, 5434 m, via the eastern ridge, combined Proposed category — 3A Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average slope — 40°, length of sections of category III — 360 m, category IV — 100 m Pitons used: for belaying for standing belay rock — 7 ice — 3 bolt —

Ascent of Vodj Peak (5434) via the East Face, grade 3A complexity, combined route, first ascent.

Southwestern Pamir North Shugnanskiy ridge p. Vodzh (5434) First ascent route 3A cat. diff. by E. slope, combined 600 m, 40°, 360/m, 100/Tv, 7 pitches, 3 belays, 6 hours Tarkhanov V.G. Samokotin Yu.T. Svyazin G.F. Rublev V.P. Elgin V.M. Petrov E.A. August 13, 1983 Brief description of the approach to the route