Vanj Range

Mountain range1,540.11 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Route Description: СВ стене

First ascent of Peak 5137m (Shaugada) via the North-East Face, grade 5A, height difference 1100 m.

Ascent Passport

I. Category: technically challenging ascents 2. Region: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River. 3. Route: first ascent to Peak 5137 m (Shaugada) via the northeast wall. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness: +50°, length of complex sections (5 and 6 difficulty category) – 335 m. 5. Pitons driven: rock — 40, ice — 22 (excluding descent) 6. Number of climbing hours: 18.5 (excluding descent) 7. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: one sitting bivouac on the wall on an artificial platform 8. Team name: team of the Leningrad City Council of the Spartacus Sports Society 9. Team composition:

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Route Description: С гребню

Ascent certificate for Shaugada peak (5137 m) via the Northern ridge (4B category of difficulty) in the Pamir Mountains, route description, technical characteristics, and participants of the 1979 ascent.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Ascent Class: Technical
  2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shaugada 5137 m, via the North Ridge
  4. Proposed Difficulty Category: 4B cat. diff.
  5. Route Characteristics: height difference 840 m, average slope 45°. Length of sections: R1–480 m; R2–200 m; R3–160 m; R4–120 m; R5–220 m.
  6. Pitons hammered: — for belay: rock 22, ice 20, bolted —.
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Route Description: С кф.

Description of the ascent route to Cherepovets peak (Vanch ridge) via the northern counterfort, difficulty category 5B, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1979.

  1. Climbing class: technical
  2. Climbing area: Vanch Ridge
  3. Peak, elevation, route: Cherepovets, 5200 m, via north counterfort
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 1200 m average steepness: 49° length of sections with I difficulty: 300 m length of sections with II difficulty: 280 m length of sections with III difficulty: 660 m
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Ascent of the Climbing club "Donbass" to Peak Khrustalny (5281 m) via the north wall in the Central Pamir.

I. Category of ascent — technical 2. Region of ascent — Central Pamir 3. Route of ascent — Peak Khrustalny (name), 5281 m, north face. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1780 m, average steepness — 68°, length of difficult section — 430 m 5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 272, ice — 40, bolt — 0 6. Number of climbing hours — 42.5 hours 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 3 8. Team name — Alpine Club "Donbass" 9. Surname, name, patronymic of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

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Route Description: С стене

Ascent of the north wall of Peak Khrustalny (5231) in the Pamir Mountains by a team of climbers from the "Donbass" club in 1976, first ascent of a category 5B route.

4.2.26

4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face

Alpinism Club "Donbass"

DesignationRankClub
1.BONDARETS Stanislav AfanasievichCandidate for Master of SportsBurevestnik
2.FELD'MAN Gennadiy L'vovich1st sports rankBurevestnik
3.MIROSHNICHENKO Konstantin Vasil'evich1st sports rankAvangard
4.MARTYNENKO Sergey Ivanovich1st sports rankAvangard
5.MESHCHERYAKOV Aleksandr Sergeevich1st sports rankAvangard
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Climbing certificate for an unnamed peak (5231 m) in the Central Pamir via the Western Ridge, difficulty category 5-4, climbed by a team from the Gorky Regional Council of the "Zenit" Voluntary Sports Society in 1976.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging First ascent, approximately 5-4 difficulty category. 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanchsky Ridge. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations: Unnamed peak — 5231 m (conditionally named p. Khrustalny) via the western ridge. 4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1731 m, average steepness — 50°, length of complex sections:

  • ridge before the gendarme wall — 300 m,
  • wall of the trapezoidal gendarme — 200 m,
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Route Description: 3 гребню

First ascent of an unnamed peak (5231 m) via Western Ridge in the Vanch Range, Pamir Mountains; a 5A (Russian grading system) route.

Vanch Range

UNNAMED PEAK 5231 m (previously 5211)! (FIRST ASCENT) VIA WEST RIDGE ROUTE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY

Team Composition

NameSport RankRole
Vavilov A.I.1st sport rank— team leader
Zhelandovskiy L.E.1st sport rank— participant
Mironychev M.S.1st sport rank— " —
Shabrukov V.I.1st sport rank— " —
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Route Description: С ребру

SummitMateSSummitMate
4 months ago

Ascent to Lenin Peak via the classic route through Razdel'naya and the ridge to the summit, description of the path and key moments.

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Route Description: С ребру

Description of the first ascent of Maly Rawak peak via the northern counterfort, category 4A complexity, 800m height difference, 14 hours of climbing time.

Ascent Log

  1. CATEGORY: technically challenging ascents.
  2. REGION: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River.
  3. ROUTE: first ascent of Maly Ravak peak via the northern counterfort, ridge.
  4. Ascent description: height difference: 4600–3800 = 800 m; average steepness 45°–60°; length of difficult sections — 400 m, including very difficult — 55 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: 24 (rock).
  6. Number of travel hours: 14.
  7. Team name: team of LGS DSO “Spartak”.
  8. Team composition:
  9. Baybara Viktor Savelyevich — team leader, 1st sports category.
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Route Description: центру 3 стены

First ascent of the northern wall of Peak Ravak (5232 m) in the Central Pamir, a route of category III (UIAA) difficulty, climbed by a team from the Leningrad City Council of the Spartak Volunteer Sports Society in 1975.

I. Ascent Passport

  1. Category: technically challenging ascents.
  2. Area: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River.
  3. Route: first ascent to Peak 5232 m (Ravak) via the center of the north face.
  4. Characteristics of the ascent:
  • height difference — 1200 m;
  • average steepness — 60°;
  • length of complex sections (5 and 6 cat. diff.) — 875 m;
  1. Pitons driven:
  • rock — 126;
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