4. 11.77. 4th ascent

Description of the ascent to Peak "Tajikistan" via the Kakhiani route

6B category of complexity. The group consists of 4 people:

1. Getman Igor Samuilovich
   • CMS, born 1939, secondary technical education, member of the "TADJIKISTAN" society, has been involved in mountaineering since 1959.
2. Badygin Roman Mikhailovich
   • CMS, born 1935, higher education, design engineer, junior mountaineering instructor, has been involved in mountaineering since 1960.
3. Zubovas Konstantinas Vladimirovich
   • CMS, born 1940, higher education, architect, junior instructor, has been involved in mountaineering since 1961.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering.

XXIV USSR Mountaineering Championship

Peak Tajikistan via the East Face. Southwestern Pamir

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

(Report by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports)

• 1. Shabokhin V. A.
• 2. Samoilenko V. Ch.
• 3. Kozak L. R.
• 4. Orlov O. L. Team leader: Kakhiani

№6400

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE USSR IN ALPINISM 1973

Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

PEAK TAJIKISTAN 6565 via the SOUTHEAST FACE The route was traversed by the team from LENINGRAD SPORTS COMMITTEE:

• Captain MS LOGACHEV Y.A.
• Senior coach MSMSK ZHITENEV F.N. Southwest Pamir
• 1973 Photo 2. Southeast face of Peak Tajikistan. Taken from Peak LGU.

Ii a c ii o p t

ascent made at the USSR Alpine Championship in 1973. I. Class of ascent — high-altitude-technical. 2. Area of ascent — North-West Pamir. 3. Route of ascent — Peak Tajikistan 6565 North-East wall. 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference — 1250 m, average steepness of the wall — 83°, edges — 50°, length of difficult sections — 650 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 151, ice — 6, bolt — 1. 6. Number of climbing hours — 53.

List

of the TsS DSO "Trud" team that participated in the country's championship in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents, having climbed the northeast wall of Peak Tajikistan 6565 m. Participants:

• 1. Chunovkin G.A., Master of Sports — team captain
• 2. Solonnikov V.A., Master of Sports — deputy captain
• 3. Shevchenko Yu.S., 1st category — doctor
• 4. Pugachev A.D., Master of Sports

Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik"

Management of the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station Construction

Class of Traverses 7-15

Traverse (6100)

PEAK TADZHIKISTAN – PEAK BEZYMYANNY – PEAK TTU – PEAK NIKOLADZE – PEAK ENGELS – PEAK 40 LET LKSMU With ascent to Peak Tadzhikistan via the central part of the north-eastern wall through "Kniga" (first ascent) (Team of the special squad of the Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik" and the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station of the Tajik SSR) Team captain – sports master V. Bozhukov Team coaches:

• Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR K. Kuzmin

For the USSR Championship in mountaineering.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East face (category of high-altitude and technical ascents). Team captain: Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F. Team coach: Honored coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Markov V.G. Senior coach of the gathering, deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S. Team composition:

• Captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F.
• Deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S.

DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "AVANGARD" ALP CLUB "DONBASS"

REPORT

on the first ascent to the South Tajikistan peak (6300 m) via the right part of the eastern wall Donetsk, 1972

I стр.

§ 1. Geographical location and sports characteristics of the South peak of Tajikistan

The South peak of Tajikistan is located in a spur of the Shakhdarin ridge, south of the main peak of Tajikistan (6565 m). On the eastern side, the peak is bounded by the Dridzh Zapadny glacier, and on the west by the Rovini glacier.

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