Protocol № 339 dated 12.09.1971 5B first ascent VT-6 111 Report of the team from the Novosibirsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the ascent of Peak "40th Anniversary of LKSМУ"

REPORT

on the CS "Zenit" championship in alpinism 1972 on the traverse "Peak 40 let LKSM Ukrainy (6318 m) — Peak F. Engels (6510 m)" of the team from Dnepropetrovsk regional council of DSO "Zenit" (in the class of traverses) Dnepropetrovsk 1972

5. Route Description

August 8. The group left the base camp (4200 m) at 9:00. Ascended by the moraine of the Kish-ty-Dzherob glacier, then through slushy snow on the right side of the glacier to the ridge (5200 m). Two relatively flat snow platforms were trampled and the group spent the night there. August 9. Departure at 9:00. The weather was excellent. Ascended to the ridge at 5200 m in rope teams: VALIK—SEMENOV, NAZARENKO—KOZAK, SAMOYLENKO—GREBENKIN, PROTSENKO—SUSLOV. The rope teams remained unchanged thereafter. Movement was simultaneous; the snow was steep but not yet slushy up to the ridge. Descended from the ridge via a rappelled rope to the Zugvand glacier. Then ascended up the glacier. The slope was approximately 20°, but it was not very hot, and the snow began to slush, making it hard to move. Steps were alternately kicked. By 16:00, they reached the start of the route. The key section ahead was the traverse of the Western wall of Peak 40 let LKSMU. They set up a camp, had a snack. At 17:00, the rope team VALIK—SUSLOV went to reconnoiter the start of the route. The route begins with negotiating a bergschrund and exiting onto ice under the marble belt. The ice slope was 30–35° steep and 200 m long. There was a thin layer of slushy snow on the ice, making it difficult to move in crampons. The available daylight was used to process the ice section. The rope team VALIK—SUSLOV, without backpacks and with three 80-meter ropes, used ice screws for protection and fixed ropes up to the rocky outcrop under the marble belt. By 20:00, the team returned to the tents on the Zugvand glacier.

USSR Alpine Federation Donetsk Regional Alpine Section

Report

of the Donetsk Alpinad participants on the traverse of the peak 40th Anniversary of Komsomol of Ukraine – peak Engels approximately 5–6 category of difficulty with the first ascent of the western wall of peak 40th Anniversary of Komsomol of Ukraine, carried out for the 1967 Ukrainian SSR alpine championship in the traverse class. Donetsk, 1967

1. Geographical location and sporting characteristics

The area of peaks Marx and Engels is located within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR, in the southwestern Pamir, within the geographical coordinates: 37°02′–37°06′ north latitude and 72°29′–72°32′ east longitude. Alpinists began to explore this area relatively recently compared to other regions of the Pamir and Tian Shan. Only in 1954 did an expedition from the Georgian Alpine Club arrive here. They were the first to ascend several peaks in the area, including the highest point – peak Karl Marx (6726 m) from the south (from the East Nishgar glacier), and the third highest peak – peak Friedrich Engels (6510 m) from the south (from the Kishty-Dzherob glacier). A high (over 6000 m) ridge from peak Leningrad State University to peak Marx drops steeply to the east into the Zughvand valley, forming a nearly vertical wall about 8 km long. The northeastern walls of peaks Marx and Engels (to the right of the Kustovsky route, beyond the wall's bend) can evoke admiration for their inaccessibility from any master of wall climbing. Therefore, with the recent introduction of a new class – high-altitude technically complex ascents – in the USSR alpine championship, this area has become very popular and will remain a pilgrimage site for many alpine groups for a long time.

1. Climbing category is altitude-technical.
2. Climbing area — South-West Pamir, Kyshty-Dzherob gorge.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: peak Engels. South summit 6318 m East wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category 6B.
5. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference 1318 m Walls 1170 m Average steepness 80° Length of complex sections (5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION 5A first ascent Protocol No. 287 21.1.69 N. Snegirev collection 32. passed TADJIK COUNCIL OF THE SPARTAK VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY 108 (South-Western Pamir)

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak 6300 via the western edge by the team from the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society 6318 Peak Engels 60 Peak Komosomola Ukrainy Peak Tajikistan 10?

10­ Н

Ascent Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical.
2. Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak Engels via Central col, NE ridge (Chunovkine's variant), 6510 m
4. 6B difficulty category.
5. Elevation gain: 2200 m, length: 3300 m. Length of sections with 6 - 5 complexity category: 1500 m. Average steepness: rock wall — 86°, ice wall — 55°, summit ridge — 45°. Number of pitons installed on the route: 12. Previously installed pitons used: 42.
6. Team's moving time: 105 h 11 min.
7. Overnights: 1st — sitting on a rock ledge

Konin Tyy Aar

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974 I. ASCENT CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. ASCENT REGION — south-western Pamir 3. ASCENT ROUTE — peak Engels (6510 m) via the north face from the Piabon valley 4. ASCENT CHARACTERISTICS — Route length — 2470 m, including:

• main wall (from the base of the black bastion to the top of the "tower") — 1435 m
• overhanging part of the wall (red and light quartz bastions) Height difference — (6510–4360 m)

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shabo valley.
3. Peak Engels via the north wall (Gaas route, 1974). 2nd ascent in 1976. 3rd ascent.
4. 6B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
5. Height difference — 1950 m. (1560 m). Main part height difference — 1150 m (b.sh – ridge). Length — 2305 m. Length of 6A and 6B sections — 365 m. Average steepness: