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On the first ascent of the eastern ridge of Peak Pamyati Zhertv Tetnulda (5746 m) (Moscow Pravda) in the southwestern Pamir, approximately 4B–6 category of difficulty, made by a group of participants of the Donetsk Climbing Competition for the championship of the Ukrainian SSR in 1967 in the class of high-altitude technically complex ascents. Donetsk 1967

I. Geographical location and sports characteristics

The area of Peaks Marx and Engels is located within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR, in the southwestern Pamir, within the geographical coordinates: 37°02′–37°06′ north latitude and 72°29′–72°32′ east longitude. Climbers began to explore this area relatively recently compared to other regions of the Pamir and Tian Shan. Only in 1954 did an expedition from the Georgian Alpine Club arrive here. They were the first to ascend several peaks in the area, including the highest point – Peak Karl Marx (6726 m) from the south (from the East Nishghar glacier), and the third highest peak – Peak Friedrich Engels (6510 m) from the south (from the Kishty-Dzherob glacier). The high (over 6000 m) ridge from Peak Leningrad State University to Peak Marx drops steeply to the east into the Zurgvand valley, forming a nearly vertical wall about 8 km long. The northeastern walls of Peaks Marx and Engels (to the right of the Kustovsky route, beyond the bend of the wall) can evoke admiration for their inaccessibility among any master of wall climbing. Therefore, with the recent introduction of a new class – high-altitude technically complex ascents – in the USSR championships, societies, and departments on mountaineering, this area became very popular and will likely remain a pilgrimage site for many climbing groups for a long time.

FOR THE CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY in the II category of high-altitude and technical ascents. P. MOSKOVSKAYA PR AVDA VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE 45 cat. tr. TEAM MOSCOW ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY:

• SHATILOV V.N. — TEAM LEADER
• KRUTYKH A.V.
• KRAYUSHKIN D.A.
• SAFRONOV V.A. August 5–7, 1972 Technical characteristics of the route along the eastern ridge of Pik Pamyati Zhertv Tetnuldа (5746 m) in the southwestern Pamir, based on the results of the first ascent by a group of participants in the Donetsk Alpinade on July 6–8, 1967.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION 4144. Protocol No. 332 of April 6, 1971 5B first ascent To the Classification Commission of the USSR Mountaineering Federation South-Western Pamir

PIK AKADEMIKA KRYLOVA VIA EASTERN WALL

(Moscow Truth) (first ascent, approximately 6th category of difficulty)

2019

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Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven:

The best mountaineering achievements of 1962 in the category of high-altitude ascents. Peak Tajikistan Peak «6565» (PAMIR) FIRST ASCENT Sports team Leningrad Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik" Team captain: Savvon S.M., Master of Sports of the USSR Coach: Gromov A.G., Master of Sports of the USSR

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Pik Tajikistan is located on the Southwestern Pamir in the Southeastern spur of the Shahdara Range, adjacent to Peak K. Marx (see diagram). This area was explored later than other regions of the Pamir. The first mountaineering expedition was organized in 1946 by the All-Union Committee for Physical Education and Sports. The head of the expedition's assault group, Honored Master of Sports E.M. ABALAKOV, compiled an alpinist-geographical description of this most interesting region. In recent years, the Shahdara Range has become very popular, with a number of mountaineering expeditions visiting it. Now, this area is well explored. Without going into detail about the description, as it has been done quite thoroughly by previous expeditions, we can note only the main characteristic features of the area. Here, there are very convenient and close approaches from the access roads (highways), good stable weather, and low air humidity. Almost all ridges and crests end in gorges with powerful walls. The idea of ascending Pik Tajikistan from the east arose in 1964 during the ascent of Peak Moskovskaya Pravda. From this peak, Pik Tajikistan had a very majestic and grandiose appearance. In the Zughvand gorge, the peak ended in a giant wall. Additional information about the object of ascent was obtained from Spartakovites K. KLETSKO and G. AGRANOVSKY, who observed this peak in 1964 from the slopes of Peak Engels and confirmed that

BRIEF INFORMATION ABOUT THE AREA AND OBJECT OF ASCENT

the eastern wall of Pik Tajikistan has a very large steepness and length.