Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: High-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area: South-West Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Togu (6141 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category difficulty: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference about 1640 m; average steepness 32°; section lengths: R1 — 1700 m R2 — 1090 m R3 — 2240 m R4 — 340 m

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Description of the traverse of peaks Engels, 40 let LKSMU and the ridge of Moskovskaya Pravda with ascent to peak Engels via the south wall

COMPLETED BY THE TEAM FROM MOSCOW from July 17 to August 2, 1971

Group Composition

The team has extensive experience in joint ascents in both the Pamir and the Caucasus. All members of the main composition, except E. Smirnov, had experience with ascents of 6th category of difficulty. When forming the team in Moscow, several complications arose regarding the release and financing of participants. The Moscow Committee covered the participants' championship expenses for food; other expenses were borne by the participants. It was clear in Moscow that there should be no more than 6 people on the route due to the high steepness and complexity of the South wall of peak Engels. A few days before departure, it became known that one of the strongest team members, O. Abalakov, was not released from work; V. Bezlyudny was also unable to participate. The remaining participants traveled to the area of peak Engels. During the final departure, D.A. Filippov fell ill and had to be left at the observation group's camp. Thus, the group embarked on the route with 5 members.

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ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent classification — high-altitude technical climb.
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Kinty-Dzherab valley.
3. Peak — Engels Peak 6510 m via the South Face.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 6.
5. Route description: elevation gain — 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 912 m; average steepness of the rock section — 75°, average steepness of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 85°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors. rock pitons 137, 70; ice screws 0, 0; bolt pitons 0, 14.
7. Total climbing hours — 3 h 30 min.

1,9 25 1 △ 6400 24 135 15200

100

ON THE CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE U.S.S.R.

Peak Engel'sa

via the South-Eastern WALL (South-Western PAMIR)

1. Kavunenko 15.0
2. Zaits P.V.
3. Levin B.V.
4. Filippov D.A

Report

on the traverse of peaks Engel'sa — Marx — Shakdarinsky Ridge — Pamir (first ascent).

1. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Peaks Engel'sa and Marx

a) Geography of the Area. Both peaks are located in the Shakdarinsky Ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction, and are its highest peaks.

• Height of peak Marx — 6726 m.
• Height of peak Engel'sa — 6510 m. The Shakdarinsky Ridge is a watershed between the Pyanj River basin (to the south) and the Shakdara River basin (to the north). Lateral ridges extending from the arrays of peaks Marx and Engel'sa divide the northern slopes into three valleys: Khatsak, Shaboy, and Nispar (from west to east). Thus, both peaks are accessible from the north only from the Shaboy valley. Here, both peaks drop with huge walls to the foot of the Marx Glacier. The peak arrays rest on granite foundations, resulting in exceptionally extensive sections of sheer walls and a blocky rock structure. Individual monolithic blocks in the array of peak Engel'sa reach 500 m. The slopes of the ridge are covered with powerful glaciation, and numerous ice falls are present, especially in the area between peaks Marx and Engel'sa. However, the relief of the Marx Glacier does not contain significant difficulties. The slopes of peaks Marx and Engel'sa from the north represent routes of the highest category of difficulty, but ascent by these paths is possible only after thorough reconnaissance.

Report

on the traverse of Peaks Engels — Marx — Shakhdarin Range — Pamir (first ascent).

1. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Peaks Engels and Marx

A. Geography of the Area

Both peaks are located in the Shakhdarin Range, which stretches in a latitudinal direction, and are its highest peaks. The height of Peak Marx is 6726 m, and Peak Engels is 6510 m. The Shakhdarin Range is a watershed between the Pyanj River basin (to the south) and the Shakhdara River basin (to the north). Lateral ridges extending from the massifs of Peaks Marx and Engels dissect the northern slopes into three valleys: Khatsak, Shabo, and Nispas (from west to east). Thus, both peaks are accessible from the north only from the Shabo valley. Here, both peaks drop with huge walls to the foot of the Marx Glacier. The massifs of the peaks rest on granite foundations, resulting in exceptionally extensive sections of completely sheer walls and a blocky rock structure. Individual monolithic blocks in the Peak Engels massif reach 500 meters. The slopes of the range are covered with powerful glaciation and numerous ice drops, especially in the area between Peaks Marx and Engels. However, the relief of the Marx Glacier does not contain significant difficulties. The northern slopes of Peaks Marx and Engels represent routes of the highest category of difficulty, but ascending these paths is possible only after careful reconnaissance. The lateral ridges bounding the Shabo valley to the east and west are much lower (5200–5400 m) and do not have significant glaciation. Routes on individual peaks are not higher than category 4B. Ascending the walls (mainly from the east) is impossible due to the exceptional crumbliness of the rocks.

B. History of Alpinist Exploration