Shakhdara Range
Route Description: левому баст. СВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Peak Moskovskaya Pravaya (6077 m) in the Shakhdara ridge of the Pamir Mountains, category III, with characterization of the terrain and technical details.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- ASCENT CLASS: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
- ASCENT AREA, RANGE: SW PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY RANGE
- PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: P. MOSKOVSKAYA PRAVDA, 6075 m. VIA NE WALL, LEFT BASTION,
- ANTICIPATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 m SECTION LENGTH: 5/6 km approx. 11–400 m, 11–220 m, IV–200 m, V–540 m, VI–700 m AVERAGE STEEPNESS: 70–75°
Route Description: левому баст. СВ стены
SSummitMateAscent certificate for Moskovskaya Pravaya peak (6075 m) via a 5B category route in the Pamir Mountains in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- ASCENT CATEGORY: HIGH-ALTITUDE
- ASCENT REGION, RANGE: S.W. PAMIR, SHAKHDARINSKY
- PEAK, HEIGHT, ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER: MOSKOVSKAYA PRAVAYA, 6075 m, NE SNOW SLOPE CHANGE. THERE IS, KOMe.
- PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN: 1400 m, LENGTH: 1720 m, LENGTH OF 5b/6a sections 1000 m — slope, 320 m — ice. AVERAGE STEEPNESS: 67°, I–20 sections — 78°, 1–20–82°
- PITONS DEPENDENCY:
Route Description: левому баст. СВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit, 8a complexity category, with a detailed analysis of technical elements and tactics.
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Route Description: правой части СВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the 6th category route to the peak "Moskovskaya Pravda" (6075 m) in the South-West Pamir with a detailed analysis of the team's tactics and technical actions.
Passport
I. High-altitude technical class 2. South-western Pamir, Kish-ty-Dzherob river gorge 3. Peak Moskovskaya Pravda 6075 m, via the right part of the NE wall (V. Solonnikova) 4. 6B category of difficulty 5. Height difference — 375 m. Technically complex part — 270 m. Length: ice — 170 m; rocks — 1100 m; ridge — 300 m; length of sections with 5B–6B category of difficulty — 1000 m. Average steepness: ice — 50°; rocky wall part — 78°; overall average steepness — 75°; length of sections with 6B category of difficulty — 270 m. 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 67/II | 0+6/0+4 | 95/29 | 8/0 |
Route Description: правой части СВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of a Category 6 difficulty route to Peak Moskovskaya Pravda (Main) via the right part of the Northeast face in the Pamir Mountains, including details of the ascent and team tactics.
Passport
I. High-altitude technical class. 2. Pamir. Shakhdarin Range. 3. Peak — pik Moskovskoy pravdy (Gl) via the right part of the North-East wall. 4. 6th category of difficulty. 5. Height difference — 1250 m. Length — 1300 m. Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1200 m. Average steepness — 75° 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chockstones | ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 342 | - | 68 | 3 |
Route Description: правой части СВ стены
SSummitMateDescription of a route of the 6th category of difficulty to the summit Moskovskaya Pravda Glavnaya via the North-Eastern wall in the Shakhdarin ridge of the Pamir, climbed in 1979 by a group of mountaineers led by V. Pilipenko.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Ascent classification: High-altitude technical. 2. Ascent area: Pamir. Shakhdarin Range. 3. Peak Moskovskaya Pravda Main via North-Eastern wall (V. Solonnikov's route) 4. Difficulty category: 6 5. Route characteristics: Route length — 1480 m Height difference: wall — 1200 m, to the summit — 1300 m. Average steepness — 82°, complex sections — 85°. Section lengths:
Route Description: правой части СВ стены
SSummitMateClimbing passport for Moscovskoy Pravdy Peak (6075 m) via the North-East face, category 6 difficulty.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class — high-altitude technical
- Ascent area — South-West Pamir
- Summit of the route — peak Moskovskaya Pravda (6075), via the North-East wall (Solonnikov's route, partial)
- Difficulty category — 6
- Route characteristics: height difference of the wall 1129 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1040 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateAscent route description for Pik Moskovskaya Pravda (6,075m) via the North-East Face, category 6 difficulty, climbed in 1978 by a team of 6 mountaineers.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing type — high-altitude technical.
- Climbing area — SW Pamir, Shakhdara Range.
- Peak, its height, climbing route: peak Moskovskaya Pravda 6075 m, N-E wall. /variant/
- Anticipated category — 6th category of difficulty.
- Route characteristics: height difference: 1180 m, length of sections with 5B, 6th category of difficulty — 1325 m, wall steepness 83°.
- Number of pitons used: 464.
- for belaying: rock 238, ice 19, bolt 3.
- for artificial climbing aids (ITО): rock 226, bolt 1.
- Number of climbing hours — 118.
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Pik Moskovskoy Pravdy (6075 m) with 6 category of difficulty via the western wall in the Pamir Mountains.
Passport
I. Technical climbing category 2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge (southern spur) 3. Pik Moskovskoy Pravdy, main summit 6075 m. 4. 6B (presumably) 5. Height difference 1300 m. 6. Length of sections 5 and 6 cat. diff. – 1020 m (5 – 690, 6 – 330) 7. Average steepness 71–72° 8. Pitons hammered: rock 142, ice 9, bolt 2, chocks 185; used for belays: rock 44, bolt 2, chocks 73. 9. Climbing hours — 49.5
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the northern ice wall of the Pik Glavnoy Moskowskoy Pravdy (6000 m) in the Pamir Mountains, accomplished in 1982 by a group of climbers from Kharkov under the guidance of coach Poberesovsky V.I.
ASCENT DOCUMENT.
- Climbing category - technical - high-altitude.
- Climbing area - SW Pamir, Shakhdarin range.
- Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy, 6000 m, via North ice wall from E. icefall Gl.v.
- Estimated difficulty category - 5B cat. diff.
- Height difference (from base camp) - 1500 m.
- Average steepness - 60°.
- Total route length - 2000 m.
- Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 700 m.
- Number of pitons driven - 84 ice screws.