Akademiya Nauk Range

Ascent of Pik Shypka via the central counterfort of the northwest wall, category 5B, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1977.

Climbing category — altitude-technical Climbing region — Yazgulemsky ridge Peak Shipka, 6254 m, central buttress of NW wall Proposed difficulty category — 5B Route description Height difference — 2154 m, average steepness — 45°, average steepness of wall section — 60°, length of sections: R0 — 0; R1 — 500 m; R2 — 1550 m; R3 — 710 m; R4 — 305 m; R5 — 150 m. Pitons driven: for belaying, rock — 96, ice — 0, bolt — 0 for creating belay anchors — 8 Total hours of climbing — 42

### Ascent of Peak Shypky (6247 m) via the Southwest Ridge in 1970 The ascent of Peak Shypky (6247 m) via its southwest ridge in 1970 is detailed, including a description of the route, overcoming challenging sections, and coping with adverse weather conditions.

Ascent to Peak Shipka (6247 m) via the Southwest Ridge Central Council of DSO "Zenit" 1970 Brief Geographical and Geological Characteristics of the Peak Shipka Area Peak Shipka (6247 m) is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR. Along with the peaks: Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m), Peak October Revolution (6974 m), Peak Paris Commune (6002 m), Peak Shipka encloses the Yazgulem-Dara valley, at the head of which lies the eponymous glacier, stretching over 15 km. On geographical maps, the name of the glacier and valley is incorrectly printed with "E" instead of "Ё", though this is a local name and is pronounced as YAZGULЁM-DARA.

Report on the ascent of the MOS DSO "Zenit" team to Peak Shipka via the Southwest Ridge in 1970, with a detailed description of the route and its passage.

— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.

Climbing certificate for Peak Pinka (6254 m) in the Yazgulem Range via the South Ridge, difficulty category 4B.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: high-altitude technical. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 3°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°, Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt — Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.

Ascent record of Peak Pinka (6254 m) in the Yazgulyam Range of Pamir via the South Ridge, category of difficulty 4B.

Ascent Passport Ascent class: High-altitude technical. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 31°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°, Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt — Number of climbing hours: 15 hours. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs at one location on a snowy ridge at an altitude of about 5700 m.

### First Ascent of Peak Shink (6254 m) via the West Ridge Description of the first ascent via the west ridge to Peak Shink (6254 m), a 5B category route completed in 1968 by a group of climbers led by N.G. Kharechko.

REPORT Red Banner Turkestan Military District ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF "SHIPKA" PEAK 6254 m VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA, CATEGORY 5B The route was claimed for the primacy of the Armed Forces of the USSR in the high-altitude category. Tashkent – 1968 Shipka Peak (6254 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara River, in the southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Range, in the ridge extending from Peak October Revolution (6974 m). The most accessible approaches to the peak are from the Yazgulem-Dara Glacier. Only one route of category 4B difficulty (approximately) had been previously laid to the peak, via the southern ridge from the col between Shipka Peak and peak 5682 m. The group believed that the most interesting and challenging route could be laid via the western ridge. Preliminary reconnaissance of the route revealed that the route to Shipka Peak is a sharply rising ridge with two horizontal sections. There are two towers on the ridge: the first is in the middle section, over 300 m high; the second, the summit tower, is over 600–700 m high.

Ascent along the center of the southern wall of Peak 26 Baku Commissars, category 6 difficulty, height difference 2550 m, climbed in 10 days.

ASCENT DOCUMENT High-altitude ascent category Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) via the center of the south wall Proposed difficulty category — 6 Route characteristics: Height difference — 2550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1690 m. Average wall steepness — 74° Pitons driven: for belaying — rock 282, ice 52, no bolt pitons; for creating artificial footholds — 59 rock, 2 ice, no bolt pitons

Report on the ascent of Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall, made in 1969 by a team from the Tomsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.

For the USSR Championship in alpinism in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents. Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall. Sports team of Tomsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team captain and coach (G. Andreev), Tomsk, 1969. Report On the ascent of Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall. Geographical Location and Sports Characteristics of Peak 26 Baku Commissars Peak 26 Baku Commissars, with a height of 6834 m, is centrally located in the Yazglem Ridge, which borders the Fedchenko Glacier to the south. The ridge, which descends steeply to the glacier, is at least 10–15 km long, with an average height of 6400–6800 m. The slopes are heavily covered with ice and snow. To the east, the Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) rises, merging with Peak 26 Baku Commissars through a slight depression. In the upper reaches, the Fedchenko Glacier has a nearly imperceptible slope over a distance of 10–12 km, from its beginning to the confluence with the Vitkovsky Glacier, opposite the Abdukagor II pass, and is covered with a thick layer of snow. Along the left bank of the glacier lies the Akademiya Nauk Ridge, which is relatively low in this area. The opposite side is significantly more imposing, with many peaks above 6000 m, the highest being Peak Fikкера at 6719 m. From Peak 26 Baku Commissars, a sharply defined ridge descends northward, along which a pioneering ascent was made in 1957 by a group led by E. Tamm. Since then, several ascents have been made to the summit from the north, and in 1964, an ascent was made from the west during a traverse by a team from the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Council of the peaks: Peak Paris Commune — Peak Revolyutsii.

Description of the ascent route of the Kuibyshev Regional Council team of the "Trud" sports society to the summit, complexity category - high-altitude-technical, duration - 45.5 walking hours.

I. Climbing category altitude-technical. Climbing region Climbing route with indication of the summit and its height. Climbing characteristics — height difference — 1200 m, average steepness — 63°, length of the most difficult sections — 1010 m. Number of pitons driven rock pitons — 117 Ice pitons — 12, bolt pitons — none. Number of walking hours — 45.5 hours (plus 9 hours of processing).

Ascent of Peak A. Green via the centre of the North-West wall in Pamir, first ascent of a route of 5B category of complexity.

Geographic Overview The peak of A. Grin (6525 m) is located in the Yazgulemsky ridge of the Central Pamir in the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier, northeast of Peak Revolyutsii. Fairly gentle ridges descend from the peak: to Peak Revolyutsii to Peak Omar Khayyam To the northwest, towards the Fedchenko Glacier, a nearly sheer wall drops 1200 m, while to the southeast, towards the Grum-Grжимайло Glacier, very steep icy slopes descend. The area is characterized by a harsh climate, large temperature fluctuations, significant snowfall, and unstable weather. The upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier are difficult to access. Shuttle services typically begin from the tongue of the Abdukagor Glacier and take about two weeks. Prior to reaching the Abdukagor Pass (5070 m), all cargo was carried in backpacks. After the pass, sleds were used, which were prepared in advance in Togliatti.