Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. II. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range. III. Peak Zamin-Karor S.W. (3009 m), via the right part of the 3rd wall. IV. Estimated difficulty category 5A, first ascent.

V. Height difference — 760 m.

Of which: wall — 550 m. Distance — 1140 m, of which: wall — 640 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 67°. VI. Pitons driven:

• rock — 30,
• chocks — 50 (3). VII. Team's travel hours — 10, days — 2. VIII. Overnight stays:
• I — separate, lying on a ledge.

IX. Team of PNAK "Gornik" from Leningrad. X. Leader — Kirgirin Valery Anatolyevich — 1st sports category.

Participants:

• Vasilkov Yuri Viktorovich — Candidate Master of Sports
• Martynova Natalia Valerievna — 2nd sports category
• Fedorkov Yuri Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports

XI. Team coach — Master of Sports of the USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich. XII. Departure to the route — July 11, 1990. Summit reached — July 12, 1990. Return — July 12, 1990.

Photo-1. Date taken — July 5, 1990. Distance — 6 km. Lens — Industar-50. Routes on peak Zamin-Karor S.W.:

• Via the left part of the 3rd wall, 5B category (Popov, 1978)
• Route climbed by the team via the right part of the 3rd wall, 5A category (Kirgirin, 1990)
• Via the S.W. ridge, 4A category (Golitsyna, 1973) Route on peak Zamin-Karor S.W. via the right part of the 3rd wall, 5A category.

Photo-2. Date taken — July 5, 1990. Distance — 1 km. Lens — Industar-50. Height — 3 km.

• 3 — Peak Zamin-Karor S.W. (3709/3550)

Map of the Ascent Area Zamin-Karor Massif

Route Profile on peak Zamin-Karor S.W. via the right part of the 3rd wall

Route Description by Sections

Section R0–R1. Scree is traversed without belay. Section R1–R2. From the center of the cirque. Rocks are heavily fragmented, numerous holds. Many places for belay. 40 m, 60°, 4th category. Section R2–R3. Steepness increases. Fragmented wall with many holds. Climbed by free climbing. 40 m, 65°, 4th category. Section R3–R4. Short traverse to the right. Then upwards along the wall. Difficult climbing. 20 m, 60°, 4th category. Section R4–R5. Large green ledge. From its left part, vertically upwards along the fragmented wall. Small stoppers and excentriques. First control cairn. 20 m, 90°, 5th category. Section R5–R6. Then to the left, towards the characteristic rusty-colored "finger" flake, first along a crack, then along an inside corner. Large hexes and excentriques are used. 40 m, 50°, 4th category. Section R6–R7. To the left of the ledge — a wall with a crack. Edges of the crack are smooth. Climbing is difficult. 60 m, 70°, 5th category. Section R7–R8. The route goes left along a complex wall with a crack. Upwards, the wall is smooth with few holds. Climbing is strenuous. Aids. 40 m, 85°, 6th category. Section R8–R9. Ledge, with a control cairn on it. Then along fragmented rocks. Difficult climbing, many holds. 60 m, 70°, 5th category. Section R9–R10. Cornice, which is bypassed to the right through a complex inside corner with a crack. Aids. 20 m, 90°, 6th category. Section R10–R11. Alternating walls and ledges. Rocks are more fragmented. General direction — left and upwards. 40 m, 50°, 6th category. Section R11–R12. Steepness increases. Ledges give way to walls. Holds are unreliable. Overnight stay. 40 m, 70°, 5th category. Section R12–R13. Along a ledge to the right for 40 m. Then upwards along heavily fragmented rocks. 80 m, 60°, 4th category. Section R13–R14. Along an inclined scree ledge to the right, traversing to bypass a wall. Then to the right and upwards along a heavily fragmented inside corner with many holds. 40 m, 60°, 4th category. Section R14–R15. Steepness increases. Wall with fragmented rocks. Climbing is moderately difficult. 40 m, 60°, 5th category. Section R15–R16. Steep wall. Climbing is difficult. Exit onto the ridge. 20 m, 70°, 5th category. Section R16–R17. Along rocks of 2nd category to the summit. 500 m, 30°, 2nd category.

Protocol

of the разбор of the first ascent on peak Zamin-Karor S.W. via the right part of the 3rd wall, 5A category, from July 11 to July 12, 1990.

The разбор is conducted by the senior coach, Master of Sports of the USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich, in the presence of the ascent participants and UTS "Gornik". Team composition:

• Kirgirin V.A. — 1st sports category (leader)
• Vasilkov Yu.V. — Candidate Master of Sports
• Martynova N.V. — 2nd sports category
• Fedorkov Yu.V. — Candidate Master of Sports

Speeches:

Kirgirin V.A. "The object was chosen due to the small number of 5A routes in the Yaghnob area and the need for more. This route has long been of interest. The route starts from the 'Birch Grove' in the right part of the Yaghnob wall, from the center of the so-called cirque. Leaving the camp located on the 'Helicopter Platform' at 14:00, we were under the route by 16:00. The route is visible from below, and we were able to identify key landmarks on the ascent.

The lower part passes through fragmented rocks from the center of the cirque towards the left part of a clearly visible green ledge. There, the 1st control cairn was built. From it, the route goes left, along an inside corner, to the 'finger', clearly visible from below. From the start of the route to the top of the 'finger' — 4 ropes, climbing is moderately difficult. From the start of the ledge on the 'finger', we went along the wall, in the upper part of which is a crack, climbing is very difficult, the crack is traversed using aids. At this point, the rocks are monolithic. 2 ropes were passed. At this point, a 2nd control cairn was organized. Further, the path goes along fragmented rocks, exiting under a cornice, which is overcome to the right along an inside corner. Climbing is difficult, aids are used. After the cornice, climbing is moderately difficult, alternating between walls and wide ledges. On one of the ledges, night caught up with us. The ledge was wide and comfortable. At 21:00, we stopped for the night, hanging 1 rope upwards. We started moving in the morning at 6:00. Having passed 1.5 ropes, we exited onto a ledge. Along it, we went left for 40 m without gaining height. Then, along rocks of moderate difficulty, we passed 2 ropes. We exited onto a large inclined scree ledge, along which we passed 1 rope to the right. Then, along fragmented rocks of moderate difficulty, through 2.5 ropes, we exited onto the ridge. From this point, after 500 m, we ascended to the S.W. summit. We were on the summit at 11:00. The descent was classic.

The route climbed consisted of 16 ropes of wall section, including: 60 m — 6th category, 340 m — 5th category, 200 m — 4th category, 500 m along the ridge to the summit. Of these, 60 m were climbed using aids. The rest was climbed by free climbing. 30 pitons and 50 chocks were driven. The route took 10 hours: 6 hours on the first day and 4 hours on the second. The entire route was first worked by Kirgirin V.A. in a team with Fedorkov Yu.V. Vasilkov Yu.V. was the last.

During the ascent, all participants demonstrated excellent physical, technical, and psychological preparation. Based on the results of the ascent, the route corresponds to the 5A category." Fedorkov Yu.V. "The first ascent was completed at a fast pace with sufficient route difficulty. The route is logical. I want to note the confident work of the first climber. Leadership was exercised competently and unobtrusively." Martynova N.V. "This is my second 5A and the first first ascent. The route is quite difficult. I liked the moral atmosphere in the group. The participants' good preparation was evident. The 5A on peak Vladivostok is, in my opinion, weaker than this route." Glushko V.I., senior coach. "I consider the route climbed to be a first ascent. It was climbed in accordance with mountaineering rules, without violations. Participation and leadership should be counted. It is recommended to submit an ascent report for classification."

Senior coach (V.I. Glushko) Secretary (N.V. Martynova)