The ascent class is rock. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge. The summit, its height, and the ascent route — Eastern, Varzobskaya Pila peak 3600 m via the southeast wall. Estimated category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 250 m
• Average steepness — 65°
• Length of sections: 1 — m; 2 — m; 3 — 60 m; 4 — 200 m; 5 — 50 m; 6 — m Pitons driven:
• For belaying — 56
• For creating rock I.T.O. — 53
• Ice — ------

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via route 2A cat. difficulty The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via route 4B cat. difficulty. At the same time, climbers ascend to the peak via the western wall and descend to the east, continuing the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to 2A cat. difficulty and can be recommended for badge holders and athletes. Approaches for the described ascent are made via the same paths as for the traverse of Varzob Saw from W to E via route 3B cat. difficulty, i.e., via the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The exit to the saddle is made in its right part (not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, gutters, etc. On the saddle:

• There are areas for setting up two tents.
• Snow is present almost all year round - on the northern side. Movement along the saddle to the Western peak:

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via the 2A category route The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is typically climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via the 4B category route. In doing so, climbers ascend the peak via the western wall and descend to the east to continue the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to the 2A category and can be recommended for badge holders and ranked climbers. The approach for this ascent is made via the same paths as for the Varzob Saw traverse from W to E: via the 3B category route, i.e., along the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The ascent to the saddle is made on its right side (but not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, grooves, etc. There are areas on the saddle suitable for setting up two tents, and snow is present almost year-round on the northern side. Movement along the saddle towards the Western peak occurs:

• initially along the ledges on the northern side of the ridge,
• then, closer to the Western peak, on the southern side (belaying is mandatory). The ascent to the peak is made via short wall sections (1–1.5 m) alternating with ledges. The route here is easily chosen and passes:

Description of the Climbing Route through the Center of the Western Peak

① Numbering of the sections on the Varzob Saw wall (first ascent)

Control Cairns

to the Western peak, category 4A The approach to the start of the route is similar to the approach to the category 4B traverse route, ascending the ridge along the same wall. Overnight stay on the saddle below the wall.

SECTION I.

Through the largest right couloir with scree, exiting onto the saddle, we reach its upper end, bounded by sheer walls. To the left, a small waterfall flows in spring and early summer. Simultaneous movement, the route length is approximately 100 m. At the end, the group ropes up.

SECTION 2.

The start of the route is along the left (in the direction of travel) counterfort of the waterfall. The lower part with a negative slope is traversed with the help of a team member standing on their shoulders.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge (5.2.19)
2. Peak: Western peak of Varzob Saw (via the center of the western wall), 3830 m
3. Difficulty category: 3B (previously 4A)
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Elevation gain: 350 m Route length: 610 m including:

• sections of 4th difficulty category — 60 m
• sections of 3B difficulty category — 130 m

Climbing class — rock climbing
Region — Gissar Range, Varzobskoy Pily area Peak, height, route — North-Eastern peak of Varzobskoy Pily via the chimney of the southern wall Suggested difficulty category — 4B Route characteristics:

• Height difference of the wall section — 500 m
• Total height difference — 600 m
• Average steepness of the wall section — 75°
• Number of rock pitons driven — 20 pcs.
• Number of protection placements — 79 pcs.

47. Varzobskaya Pila ridge traverse (all summits except Western summit), category 3B route, fig. 26.

From the bivouac by the lake, ascend into the upper reaches of the stream and to the right up grassy slopes to the col between the Western summit and the main ridge of Varzobskaya Pila. In the upper part, the ascent to the col goes across rocks via ledges and gullies exiting onto the right part of the col. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From the col, to the right below the gendarme wall. Ascend the gendarme on its right side for 60 m. Piton belay. Follow an easy, gently-sloping, stepped ridge to the top of the gendarme. Cairn. Descend from the gendarme down a steep 40-m gully onto the col. Possible snow cornices. The next gendarme is sharp-topped, red-colored. Follow the ridge upwards for 30–40 m to a talus-covered area from which, on the right, bypass the gendarme ridge along a wide ledge. The ledge is 10–15 m below the ridge of the gendarme. From the ledge, cross a small gendarme, and traverse a degraded ridge to the next col. To the next gendarme, ascend on the right up a slab with a ledge. The top of the gendarme is a gently sloping ridge. Descend to the col via a gully or ledges. Fig. 26. To ascend to the summit — the highest point of the ridge — follow moderately difficult rocks. To descend from the summit, follow the degraded ridge. Bypass gendarmes on the left by descending steeply down a gully on the north side and then continue along ledges and moderately difficult rocks on the northern slope of the ridge. Exit onto the ridge near a tall gendarme which will be followed by a sharp depression in the ridge. Down the degraded ridge to the east, bypassing gendarmes on the left. From the last gendarme, lower by rope and then descend down and left across a steep snowpatch leaving the ridge.

PASSPORT

Ascents

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 687 m; length of category 2 sections — 282 m; » » category 3 — 303 m;

Rocky island east of the initial central one

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