Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent of Route 6A category of complexity on the west face of Blok A peak in Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Report

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Lailyak valley.
  3. Peak, route: Blok A. via W wall (K. Valieva).
  4. Category of difficulty — 6A.
  5. Height difference: 802 m
    • Route length: 988 m
    • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 248 m
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Description of the route of 6B category of complexity via the West face of the peak of Alexander Blok in Pamiro-Alai, completed by a team of five people in 1995.

PASSPORT

  1. Class: technical
  2. Region: Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley
  3. Summit: Pik Alexandra Bloka via West face
  4. Category: 6A
  5. Elevation difference:
    • 680 m
    • length 1250 m
    • length of 6th category sections 580 m
    • average steepness of the main part of the route 82°
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First ascent of Peak A. Blok (5229 m) by the West Face in Pamir-Alay, rated as 6B complexity category.

PASSPORT

I. Category of first ascents 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley 3. Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via West Face 4. Proposed category 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference of the route 760 m, "wall section" 688 m, length — 965 m. Length of sections with category difficulty 5–6 — 805 m, of which category 6 — 425 m. Average steepness of the wall — 78 ± 80° 6. Pitons driven:

  • rock: 119 (driven), 40 (left)
  • bolt: 32 (driven), 12 (left)
  • protection devices: 187 (driven), 60 (left)
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Passport of the climbing route, category 6B, via the northern pillar of *Pik A. Blok* (5229 m) in the **Turkestan Range**, **Pamir-Alay**.

PASSPORT

  1. Category of the first ascent.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via the pillar on the north face.
  4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
  5. Height difference — 780 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 760 m. Average slope of the wall part of the route — 75°, of the "pillar" — 81°.
  6. Number of pitons used: | rock | placed elements | bolt | ice |
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First ascent of a 6th cat. difficulty grade route via the north face of A. Blok Peak in the Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley, by a team led by Sergey Efimov.

I. Technical class. 2. Turkestan Ridge. Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak A. Blok via the central bastion of the North wall. 4. Assumed 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 710 m, length 800 m. Length of 6B sections — 500 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78° (4500–5100 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock: 97/62, bolted: 11/11, nuts: 245/166, ice screws: 20/0 7. Team's total climbing hours: 57 (5 days) 8. Overnights: I–II in hammocks; III–IV — two in hammocks; V on a carved snow-ice ledge.

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Description of a category 5B climbing route to the summit of A. Blok (5229 m) via the Central Bastion of the North Face in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.

Ascent Passport

  1. Peak, its height, route: p. A. Blok, 5229 m, via the Central Bastion of the North wall.
  2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Difficulty category: 5B (participants recommend 6th cat. diff.).
  4. Route characteristics: length — height difference — average steepness of the route's wall section —
  5. Pitons hammered:
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Description of the ascent to Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall, difficulty category 5⁵, made by a team of climbers in 1986.

Ascent Passport

  1. CLASS — technical
  2. Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
  3. Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall (route by group of S. Efimov)
  4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B, fourth ascent
  5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1039 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 583 m, 5th cat. diff. — 325 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS of the main part of the route — 80°
  6. NUMBER OF PITS: rock — 138 (31), bolt — 8 (53), chocks — 156, ice — 28 (9)
  7. CLIMBING TIME — 77.5 hours, days — 6. 1 day of preparation
  8. NIGHTS: four sitting and hammock bivouacs, one lying on a ridge
  9. LEADER: Oshé Eduard Andreevich, Master of Sports
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Ascent to Pik Bloka via the Maksimenya route, category 6A, on the West and North-West wall.

Ascent Record

  1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
  2. Peak Bloka, 5239 m, via West and Northwest wall (Maximenya route, 2008)
  3. Proposed — 6A category (2nd ascent)
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route height difference: 875 m, wall 790 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1035 m. Length of sections:
    • 5th category — 125 m.
    • 6th category — 615 m.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Blok Peak (5239 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay, complexity category II AС, duration of the route is 2 days, 22.5 walking hours.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical class.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, AkSu valley.
  3. Peak Blok (5239 m) via SW ridge.
  4. First ascent, 5B cat. difficulty is assumed.
  5. Length of sections: 6th cat. difficulty — 55 m 5th cat. difficulty — 980 m Average steepness of main sections: 85–90° (4670–4770, 4800–4870, 5000–5040), 80–85° (4600–4670), all of 5–6 cat. difficulty.
  6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, chocks, ice 54/14 2/2 60/3 35/0
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Description of a Category 5B climbing route to Peak 5239 (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) via the West Ridge, including passage details and technical characteristics.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Peak 5239 (A. Blok) via the Western ridge.
  4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., combined, second ascent.
  5. Height difference — 790 m, route length — 990 m. Average slope of the route — 55°. Average slope of the icy part of the route — 50°. Average slope of the main rock part — 72°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th cat. diff. — 400 m.
  6. Number of pitons: | rock | nuts | ice |
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