Pamir-Alay
Route Description: 3 стене
Report on the ascent of Route 6A category of complexity on the west face of Blok A peak in Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Report
- Ascent category — technical.
- Ascent area: Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Lailyak valley.
- Peak, route: Blok A. via W wall (K. Valieva).
- Category of difficulty — 6A.
- Height difference: 802 m
- Route length: 988 m
- Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 248 m
Route Description: 3 стене
Description of the route of 6B category of complexity via the West face of the peak of Alexander Blok in Pamiro-Alai, completed by a team of five people in 1995.
PASSPORT
- Class: technical
- Region: Pamir-Alay, Lailak valley
- Summit: Pik Alexandra Bloka via West face
- Category: 6A
- Elevation difference:
- 680 m
- length 1250 m
- length of 6th category sections 580 m
- average steepness of the main part of the route 82°
Route Description: 3 стене
First ascent of Peak A. Blok (5229 m) by the West Face in Pamir-Alay, rated as 6B complexity category.
PASSPORT
I. Category of first ascents 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley 3. Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via West Face 4. Proposed category 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference of the route 760 m, "wall section" 688 m, length — 965 m. Length of sections with category difficulty 5–6 — 805 m, of which category 6 — 425 m. Average steepness of the wall — 78 ± 80° 6. Pitons driven:
- rock: 119 (driven), 40 (left)
- bolt: 32 (driven), 12 (left)
- protection devices: 187 (driven), 60 (left)
Route Description: столбу С стены
Passport of the climbing route, category 6B, via the northern pillar of *Pik A. Blok* (5229 m) in the **Turkestan Range**, **Pamir-Alay**.
PASSPORT
- Category of the first ascent.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak A. Blok, 5229 m, via the pillar on the north face.
- Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
- Height difference — 780 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 760 m. Average slope of the wall part of the route — 75°, of the "pillar" — 81°.
- Number of pitons used: | rock | placed elements | bolt | ice |
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
First ascent of a 6th cat. difficulty grade route via the north face of A. Blok Peak in the Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley, by a team led by Sergey Efimov.
I. Technical class. 2. Turkestan Ridge. Ak-Su gorge. 3. Peak A. Blok via the central bastion of the North wall. 4. Assumed 6B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 710 m, length 800 m. Length of 6B sections — 500 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78° (4500–5100 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock: 97/62, bolted: 11/11, nuts: 245/166, ice screws: 20/0 7. Team's total climbing hours: 57 (5 days) 8. Overnights: I–II in hammocks; III–IV — two in hammocks; V on a carved snow-ice ledge.
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
Description of a category 5B climbing route to the summit of A. Blok (5229 m) via the Central Bastion of the North Face in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.
Ascent Passport
- Peak, its height, route: p. A. Blok, 5229 m, via the Central Bastion of the North wall.
- Area of ascent: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
- Difficulty category: 5B (participants recommend 6th cat. diff.).
- Route characteristics: length — height difference — average steepness of the route's wall section —
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: центр. бастиону С стены
Description of the ascent to Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall, difficulty category 5⁵, made by a team of climbers in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- CLASS — technical
- Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
- Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the central bastion of the northern wall (route by group of S. Efimov)
- DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B, fourth ascent
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1039 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 583 m, 5th cat. diff. — 325 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS of the main part of the route — 80°
- NUMBER OF PITS: rock — 138 (31), bolt — 8 (53), chocks — 156, ice — 28 (9)
- CLIMBING TIME — 77.5 hours, days — 6. 1 day of preparation
- NIGHTS: four sitting and hammock bivouacs, one lying on a ridge
- LEADER: Oshé Eduard Andreevich, Master of Sports
Route Description: З и СЗ стене
Ascent to Pik Bloka via the Maksimenya route, category 6A, on the West and North-West wall.
Ascent Record
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley, 5.4.2.
- Peak Bloka, 5239 m, via West and Northwest wall (Maximenya route, 2008)
- Proposed — 6A category (2nd ascent)
- Route type: rock
- Route height difference: 875 m, wall 790 m (by altimeter)
Route length: 1035 m.
Length of sections:
- 5th category — 125 m.
- 6th category — 615 m.
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Blok Peak (5239 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay, complexity category II AС, duration of the route is 2 days, 22.5 walking hours.
PASSPORT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, AkSu valley.
- Peak Blok (5239 m) via SW ridge.
- First ascent, 5B cat. difficulty is assumed.
- Length of sections: 6th cat. difficulty — 55 m 5th cat. difficulty — 980 m Average steepness of main sections: 85–90° (4670–4770, 4800–4870, 5000–5040), 80–85° (4600–4670), all of 5–6 cat. difficulty.
- Pitons driven: rock, bolt, chocks, ice 54/14 2/2 60/3 35/0
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of a Category 5B climbing route to Peak 5239 (Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range) via the West Ridge, including passage details and technical characteristics.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak 5239 (A. Blok) via the Western ridge.
- Proposed — 5B cat. diff., combined, second ascent.
- Height difference — 790 m, route length — 990 m. Average slope of the route — 55°. Average slope of the icy part of the route — 50°. Average slope of the main rock part — 72°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th cat. diff. — 400 m.
- Number of pitons: | rock | nuts | ice |