Khrebet Sarydzhaz

Climbing passport for Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the North Ridge, complexity category 5B, team of the Ural Air Force and Air Defense Association.

Ascent Passport Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9 Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a 5B category of difficulty, combination Route type — combined Route height difference — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of 5 category sections – 300 m, Average steepness of the wall section — 70° (6500–6800 m), Average steepness of the entire route — 47°

First double ascent in Alpine style through the center of Khan-Tengri North Face. Description of the route, equipment, and an interview with the climbers.

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class Report On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent. Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. Route type – combined

Report on the first ascent through the center of the north wall of Khan-Tengri by a two-person team in Alpine style in 2005.

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship High-Altitude Class Report On the ascent to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Route combination: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E. Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S.Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from S.Inylchek glacier via the center of the N face Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. Route type — combined

Description of the first ascent route to Peak Semionov (5816 m) in Tian-Shan, made in 1958 by a group of climbers led by U. Usenov.

Materials about the Semenov Peak area Semenov Peak (5816 m), one of the most famous peaks in the Central Tian Shan, is located in the eastern part of the Sarydzhas ridge in the upper reaches of the eponymous glacier. The huge glaciated mass of Semenov Peak is the highest point of this ridge. East of Semenov Peak, in the Sarydzhas ridge, rises a two-headed peak (5437 m) - an important orographic node of Tian Shan. Here, the Terskey Alatau ridge (under the name of Katta-Ashutor) connects with Sarydzhas. The orography of the Semenov Peak area is incorrectly shown on: the map of military topographers from 1943 in the articles by A. Letavet and Timoshev "Conquest of the Marble Wall Peak" in the diagram by Nozdryukhin, etc. The true structure of this area was first shown on the diagram by V. Kolokolnikov (1953). And to the west (approximately 5 km away) is the unnamed peak "5488 m", which is also a photographic node (the Adyr-Tor ridge branches off from it, serving as a watershed between the Semenov and Mushketov glaciers). In addition to the two main ridges mentioned, a powerful southeast spur branches off from the peak, from which in turn further branch off:

Report on the first ascent of the northeastern ridge of Peak Chapayev followed by an ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak as part of the 1988 Kazakh SSR Alpine Championship.

Championship of the Kazakh SSR High-altitude class II. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the north-eastern ridge of the shoulder of Peak Chapayev from the North Inylchek Glacier (first ascent) Team 12 SCA SAVO Coach: Yuriy Mikhaylovich Moiseev Team captain: Valeriy Nikolayevich Khrshchatyy 12 Sports Club of the Army, Almaty Almaty, Kurmangazy St., 15, apt. 8, Khrshchatyy V. N., ph. 61-27-25 Participants: V. Khrshchatyy, Z. Aubekerov, G. Mikhaylov, A. Vasil'yev, Ye. Sedel'nikov (SCA-12) August 17-20, 1988

First ascent description of Petrovsky Peak via the West Face in Tian Shan, rated 6A, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1991.

п. Petrovsky, via the SW wall – ZheSTKOV V.A. Tien Shan 7.9. Passport Class: High-altitude technical Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge Peak Petrovsky via the SOUTHWEST wall Proposed 6A category of difficulty. First ascent Elevation gain: 1460 m. Route length – 1950 m. Length of sections with 6A and 6B category of difficulty – 260 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 63° (4400–5595) Pitons left on the route (not removed) – 5 Team's climbing hours: 49 hours and days – 5

Description of the team’s ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak via the Pogrebetsky route (southwestern slope) with a complexity category of 5B.

Passport High-altitude class Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route) Category 5B difficulty Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5. Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.

Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key stages, and essential skills required for mountaineers.

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Report on the first ascent via the centre of the North face of Khan-Tengri peak by the MSG DSO "Burevestnik" team in 1986.

163 Moscow City Championship in Alpinism. First Ascent Category Peak Khan-Tengri – 6995 m – via the center of the North Face FIRST ASCENT Team of MGS DSO "Burevestnik" Team Leader: Koroteev V.K. Moscow, ul. Dorozhnaya, 16, bldg. 3, apt. 122. ph. 381-87-86 (home) Team Coach: Shpolyansky V.N. Moscow, Strelbishchensky per., 5, bldg. 3, apt. 52.

Ascent of Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via the NE edge of Chapayev peak shoulder, cat. 5B complexity, combined route.

Passport: Tian – Shan, Tengri–Tag ridge, l. Sev. Inylchek 7, 9, 13 Khan – Tengri 6995 m. NE rib of Chapaev shoulder M-t. Solomatova.B. 5A cat. dif. Route type is combined Height difference 2695. Route length 5110 m. Length of V cat. dif. sections 310 m. avg. slope of NE rib of Chapaev shoulder 44°