Kyrgyz Alatau
Route Description: правому ребру С кф.
SSummitMateDescription of the Polevoy 5B route to Simagin Peak with a detailed analysis of key sections and recommendations for belaying and descent.
Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek
Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B
The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours.
From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice.
The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category,
but it's destroyed.
I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids.
In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed.
The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Pik Sкрытые (4650 m) from July 3 to 10, 1953, category 3A complexity, Evokokov route.
Route 6 Ascent to p. Skrylne from July 3 to 10, 1953 3A cat. sl. Evokokov, 72 4650 m
| № | Fig. 1 | Fig. 2 | Fig. 3 | Fig. 4 | Fig. 5 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| 2 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| 3 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| 4 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| R. Jeumente |
Route Description: с пер. Шестерых
SSummitMateAscent certificate for Pik Studentov (4279 m), first ascent via ridge route, category 4A in the area of Golubinoe lake, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.
Ascent Passport
to p. Students 4279 m. First ascent, I category of ascent — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. The summit p. Students and per Shesterikh, route characteristics — ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 380 m, length of sections 4th cat. of difficulty — 200 m, 3+ cat. of difficulty — 140 m, the rest 2–3 cat. of difficulty; average steepness — 55° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 42 (12), protection elements — 15 (0), ice — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 13 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Alimov V. P., CMS Participants:
- Razamascev M.Yu. 2nd sports category
- Polyncev V.A. 2nd sports category
- Churukanova L.I. 2nd sports category
- Desyatov P.R. 2nd sports category
- Team coach Belousov E.B. CMS II. Date of departure on the route and return from the route — August 20, 1987
Route Description: с пер. Шестерых
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the top of Students through the pass of the Six with a detailed analysis of technical sections and relief elements.
From the parking lot at the GMS on the right-bank moraine of Golubina glacier, the path along the glacier to the Shesterykh pass takes 2 hours. From the pass, turn right and approach the base of the ridge ascent leading to p. Studentov. The beginning of the route is on the left, along the inner corner with ledges, which after 40 m leads to a convenient talus ledge (section R0–R1)
Further:
- Up to the left 20 m along the chimney
- 20 m to the right along the inclined ledge (section R0–R2)
- Exit to the "window" between two teeth (40 m)
- From the left of the edge, along the ledges, approach the inner corner, turning into a chimney
- In front of the inner corner - a 6-meter wall
- Section 4–6: along the inner corner and chimney 50 m - exit to the vertical wall
- Along the vertical wall and along the inclined ledge, bypassing the summit of the first ascent to the right, exit to the horizontal part of the first ascent (section 5–6).
Route Description: с пер. Шестерых
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the South Col route along the Southeast Ridge.
R2
Description of the Susamyr range with a list of peaks: 1st Zapadnaya, 2nd Zapadnaya, Malysh peak, Tsentralnaya, Snezhnaya, Ravnotsvetnaya.
Pic. 1. General view of the Susamyr massif. From right to left the peaks are:
- 1st Zapadnaya (West)
- 2nd Zapadnaya (West)
- Pik Malysh
- Tsentralnaya (Central)
- Snezhnaya (Snowy)
- Ravnotsvetnaya (Evenly Colored) Taken from the north from the Karak-too glacier.
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateRoute 14-700 to the summit of Donguz-Orun (4450 m) via the South-West face, a description of a challenging alpine ascent.
14-700
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the "Noga'r na mangapra" route in the Eeprus, Maпura massif, with a difficulty category of Pomo3.
Pic. 3. Nogar on a mangapra in Eepus. Mapura.
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the South Col from Nepal, a description of the challenging route and key points for mountaineers.
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMate### Ascent to Peak Taranova via the North Ridge from Ala-Archa Alpine Camp Detailed route description and technical information for climbers.
Description of the ascent to Peak Taranovoi via the North Ridge From the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp, the trail goes up the gorge. We ford the Ak-Sai River by stepping on stones. Further on, we follow a good trail to the Teke-Tor River, which is also easily forded a little above its confluence with the Ala-Archa River. Before reaching the Tuyuk-Su River, the trail turns left up a steep grassy slope. We set up a bivouac by a lake located before a steep rise of the old moraine. From the alpine camp to the moraine, it takes 4 hours of walking. From the bivouac, we ascend via the trail to the left of the lake onto the old moraine. We overcome another rise of the moraine and reach the river. We walked along the right bank of the river to the glacier. Having ascended onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier, we ascend via the middle part of the glacier, which is the most gentle. Crevasses are circumvented. We orient ourselves towards the snowy dome of the "School 67" peak. To the left lies the Taranovoi Pass, and further left, the peak is visible. The ascent route to Peak Taranovoi via category 1B route is visible. We continue moving along the glacier towards the North edge of this peak. A bergschrund is visible. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. After the bergschrund, we ascend a 50-60 m ice slope with a 30-35° incline onto a saddle on the North ridge of Peak Taranovoi. Piton insurance is used. It takes 3 hours 30 minutes from the bivouac by the lake to the saddle.