Description of the route by sections.

sec. 0–I. Steep hard ice.

sec. I–2. Destroyed rock wall.

sec. 2–3. Snow-covered shelves. Control tur.

sec. 3–4. Inner corner filled with ice, then a snow-covered shelf entering a steep rocky ridge.

sec. 4–5. Along the ridge, first on the left in the direction of travel, then with the help of ITO, transition to the right part of the ridge.

sec. 5–6. Steep rocky ridge leads to a snowy shelf.

sec. 6–7. Wall with small gentle holds.

sec. 7–8. Traverse through a couloir to a large shelf.

sec. 8–9. Rocky wall, complex climbing, few holds, pendulum used for passage. At the end of the section, relief like "ram's foreheads".

sec. 9–10. Crack turning into a chimney. Large chocks are used for insurance.

sec. 11–14. Rocky ridge with steep walls, walls are passed head-on.

sec. 14–15. Ridge becomes gentler, at the beginning of the section, a gap. Entrance to a shelf convenient for an overnight stay.

sec. 15–16. Simple ridge, abuts a wall.

sec. 16–17. Initially, a steep 20m wall, passed through a crack on the right, then an inner corner.

sec. 17–18. Steep wall with rich relief.

sec. 18–19. Destroyed ridge, abuts a sheer wall.

sec. 19–26. Key location. Sheer wall, complex climbing. Insurance mainly with the help of small chocks.

sec. 20–21. Snow-covered ridge leading to a snowy shoulder. Further traverse to the right into a snow-ice couloir and then entrance to the summit via route 3А cat. sl.

Sources

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