Photo of the wall on the left. Taken on February 17, 1988 at 18:00. "Triplet" lens, Φ = 40 mm, distance 2 km, height 4300 m.

Route description by sections R0–R1 — steepness 80°, cracks, well-suited for 2.5–5 cm offset wired nuts, many loose rocks; R1–R3 — everything is available for organizing protection and free climbing; R3–R4 — monolithic wall 40 meters long with a steepness of 75°, smooth, passed through a crack 10–15 cm wide, very difficult climbing, as the crack edges are smooth, large nuts and cams are required for protection; R4–R6 — everything is available; R6–R7 — relief is shallow, mostly shallow cracks, climbed using positive holds, short pitons and small stoppers; R7–R8 — an open corner with a shallow crack 2.5–3.5 cm wide, crack is blind, relief is shallow — sloping shelves 1.5–3 cm wide, 20–40°; R8–R9 — the same as R7–R8, but with less steepness — 70°; R9–R10 — an open blind corner, walls are smooth, 2 expansion bolts were hammered and left for protection, at the exit from the corner there is an overhanging blind crack 3–4 cm wide, 50–80

Passport

I. Category — technical. 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. 4. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. 5. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Season­ — winter 2. Tien-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak (4875 m) via right side of West Face, combined route 4. Category­ — 5B 5. Height difference: 175 m, length­ — 1600 m Length of sections with 5­–6 cat. diff.­ — 600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route­ — 65° (3700­–4300) 6. Pitons hammered in:

4875 m

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Description of the route by sections

R0–R3. Start of the route. Approach to the bastion via firn and ice. Then a series of internal corners and walls, exit to a ledge. Control cairn. R3–R8. Very complex rock section. Limited crack selection and small holds. In winter, it is passed exclusively using artificial climbing techniques (ИТО). Key location of the route. R6–R16:

• Approach to an internal corner and chimney via a rock ledge.
• Difficult climbing. Movement using ИТО.
• Then via walls and "ram's foreheads".
• Exit to convenient and safe sites. Overnight stay. Section I6 — 2I. Approach to the upper key section via rock walls. Difficult climbing, rock cornice. Movement using ИТО. Exit to a bastion. Section 2I — 25. Snow-ice slope, then via rocks of 3–4 cat. sl. Exit to the summit.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: winter 2. Ascent region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Simagina via N-3 couloir of North wall (4400 m.) 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B /approximate/ 5. Route characteristics: 46 m /m.r.u./ 195 m·m·m² height difference

• 750 m. wall section length
• 560 m. of them: 5th difficulty category
• 495 m. 6th difficulty category
• 85 m. average steepness — 64°

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1st day of ascent. February 8, 1990. The group started the route at 3:00 AM. Section P0–P2. The upper snow-filled passage is traversed to the right under the ice wall. The sheer ice wall is climbed using Alpfiz with ice screws, with a short traverse to the left under the rocks of p. Sinagina. The belay spot is uncomfortable. Section P2–P6. The ice slope, with an average steepness of 65°, is climbed along the left part of the couloir, pressing against the rocks. Closer to the center of the couloir, snow dust pours down, making it difficult to work. Section R6–R7. The ice cornice is climbed to the left and upwards, leading to a very steep internal angle. The climbing is tense, and the belay spot is very uncomfortable. Section R7–R8. The ice internal angle leads to a ridge, the belay spot is uncomfortable, and it transitions into a rocky internal angle, with rocks covered in ice, making the climbing tense, and the belay spot uncomfortable. Section R8–R10. A series of moderately difficult rock walls with small, smooth holds covered in ice lead to a steep "chimney" with a plug. Section P10–P11. Climbing in the "chimney" with a plug is very difficult and tense. It is necessary to clear the holds from ice and snow. The "chimney" ends with a rock ledge — a good spot for belay. Section P11–P12. A series of moderately difficult rock walls, complicated by ice on the rocks, lead to a steep, broken rock ridge, with dry rocks, and convenient belay spots. Many old pitons are found on the rocks. The rock ridge leads to the summit. The descent from the summit was made via the ascent route. Features of the passage: