Ascent Passport

to p. Medik 4437 m. First ascent I. Climbing class — combined 2. Ascent region — Kyrgyz ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Summit p. Medik, height 4437 m along the ridge, ridge route 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m (from the upper plateau of l. Golubina), length of sections III cat. diff. — 160 m, the rest — II cat. diff., average steepness — 42° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 8 (0); ice — 8 (0) 7. Number of walking hours — 10

General Information.

The "Pastukhova" peak is located in the Alamudun ridge of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, in the Shch. Irotsenko glacier basin. To the northwest lies the "Kyrgyzstan" peak (4860 m), and to the east - the "Svobody" peak. To the northeast, a step-like rock-ice counterfort departs. The summit is a snow-ice dome. To the southwest, a complex rocky counterfort departs. The lower slopes are gentle in the upper part and steep rocky slopes in the lower part. The peak was first ascended by two groups in 1958.

• A group led by Master of Sports Romanov A.V. made the ascent via the eastern ridge.
• A group led by Eropunov A. made a traverse of the peak, ascending via the northeast counterfort and descending via the eastern ridge.

Route Description.

Day 1: From the base camp, located near Lake Irotsenko, ascend up the moraine and then along the Yukh. Irotsenko glacier. The glacier is calm at the intersection point, but then has crevasses. After about 1 hour of walking on the glacier, we approach a snow-ice slope leading to the eastern ridge of the peak.

of medium difficulty. The rocks lead to a narrow ridge "п­Л­ЛЕ", about 100 m long. The section is very tense, requiring careful belaying through pitons and ledges, the latter needing to be thoroughly tested. The last part of the section (15 m) is overcome by sitting astride. The ridge leads to the 1st gendarme. Next is a small depression in the ridge. A rocky bridge leads to the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed along a scree shelf on the left (60 m). The shelf leads to the right side of the ridge and ends abruptly. Then, we traverse the gendarme to the right along complex rocks into a large internal angle. This is one of the key sections of the route. Its length is about 50 m. The section requires thorough piton belaying. The rocks lead to a small shelf where all participants can gather. From the shelf, we ascend along an internal angle (70°–40 m). The rocks are complex, requiring piton belaying. The angle leads to the shoulder of the gendarme, the upper part of which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Next comes a very jagged, sharp ridge — 40 m. The section requires careful belaying. The ridge leads to a sheer wall 30 m. A "sitting" descent is organized. From the bridge, we ascend along a rocky wall 15 m, 50° and descend a little below the ridge. Here, on a small shelf, a bivouac is organized. The journey from the 1st bivouac to the 2nd takes 11 hours. Day III: from the bivouac site, a small descent along rocks leads to a steep 60° rocky ascent of the ridge. The first 80 m of the ascent are traversed along scree shelves, leading to a rocky wall. The wall begins with rocks resembling lake ice (40 m — 45), which are relatively easy to traverse. Then, it is necessary to move traverse to the right onto the ridge along a narrow rocky shelf with thorough piton belaying. We are on the right side of the ridge.

has cornices hanging to the north. In the upper part, the ridge has two ascents. The first one is easy to pass. The second one is a climb to the dome of the summit — an ice slope, (left side of the ridge by the route) 50 m long, 50° steep. On the slope, you need to:

• move left,
• cut through the cornice on the southern ridge,
• reach a simple slope, which after 15–20 m leads to the summit. The summit is a snowy dome with rock outcrops on the southwest side, where a tur is built. Descent from the summit follows the ascent route down to the lowering in the ridge (a hollow) with convenient platforms. Here, an overnight stay is organized. Further from the overnight stay, you need to:

Peak Pastukhova and the ridge to the Alamedin Teeth.

Mi­lac­ty­ro­sa

1321. 300. 1921

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. 4150 m (Ratséka peak), via the North-West ridge.
3. The route is proposed as 2A category of complexity, first ascent by a Russian team.
4. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference of the route — 350 m. Route length — 520 m. Length of sections:

• 1B category of complexity — 320 m,
• 2A category of complexity — 170 m,
• 3A category of complexity — 36 m.

I. The route is rock. 2. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too. 3. Peak Ratsek along the ridge from the north. 4. First ascent. 5. Height difference: 440 m, route length: 1200 m. section

• 4 cat. diff. — 20 m.
• 3 cat. diff. — 200 m.
• 2 cat. diff. — 200 m.