Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. 4150 m (Ratséka peak), via the North-West ridge.
3. The route is proposed as 2A category of complexity, first ascent by a Russian team.
4. The nature of the route is rocky.
5. Height difference of the route — 350 m.

Route length — 520 m. Length of sections:

• 1B category of complexity — 320 m,
• 2A category of complexity — 170 m,
• 3A category of complexity — 36 m.

Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 45°
• entire route — 30°

6. Number of pitons used on the route:

• rock pitons — 0 pcs., including artificial aids — 0 pcs.;
• chocks — 10, including artificial aids — 0 pcs.;
• ice screws — 0 pcs.

Total number of artificial aids used — 0 pcs.

7. Team's climbing hours: 2.5 hours, 1 day.
8. Participants:

• Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich — Candidate Master of Sports — team leader
• Smaikina Svetlana Vladimirovna — 1st sports category

9. Coach: Novoselova G. V.
10. Departure to the route: 11:00, September 3, 2006.

Reached the summit: 13:30, September 3, 2006. Returned to the base camp: 16:00, September 3, 2006.

11. Organization: Tomsk Alpinism Federation. Map of the area Photo #1. General view of the summit

Photo #2. Photopanorama with neighboring peaks

Photo #3. Route profile

4150 m (Ratséka peak)

Route ascent diagram in UIAA symbols

Route description

10:00 left the camp from the "Ratséka" bivouac. 11:00 — at the col under the route — got dressed. 11:15 — started climbing. 13:30 — reached the summit. 14:00 — descended via the ascent route. 16:00 — returned to the base camp. Approached via a trail leading to the Koronskie camps along the Ak-Sai glacier. About halfway up, turned left towards the col. Further movement was across a large moraine.

R0–R1. At the col, put on gear and climbed in a belayed team. From the scree ledge, ascended 6 m up a 90°, 3 wall.

R1–R2 — 10 m, 50°, 2. Inclined slab.

R2–R4. Chimney 10 m, 90°, 3. Belay using chocks.

R3–R5 — 100 m, 30°, 1. Movement across slabs with scree.

R4–R6. Chimney 20 m, 90°, 3. Belay using chocks.

R5–R8. Series of inclined wall ledges 60 m, 45–55°, 2+.

R8–R9. Inclined slab with rocks 120 m, 40°, 1.

R9–R10. Inclined wall with a series of parallel cracks 80 m, 50–60°, 2+. Belay using chocks.

R10–R11. Inclined slab with rocks 100 m, 40°, 1.

R11–summit. Wall 20 m, 60°, 2+.

Descent was via the ascent route.

Photos of route sections:

• Photo #6
• Photo #6

Section R3