PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit, 5170 m, via the center of the large triangle of the North face.
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: route length — 940 m, height difference from the bergschrund to the ridge — 870 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 515 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 64, chocks — 54, ice screws — 37.
7. Team's travel hours: 24 hours and 2 days.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 sitting bivouac, carved in rock covered with ice.

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan (Karakol) 3. Climbing route — p. Dzhigit 5170 via the triangle of the northern wall (Sharashanidze). 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route description: elevation gain — 110 m (to the ridge) average steepness — 68° average steepness of the complex section — 85° length of the complex section (length of the section with 5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m route length — 1200 m (to the ridge)

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Karakol region, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak Jigit (5170), center of the large triangle of the north wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 1350 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — about 1000 m. Average steepness — 76°
6. Pitons driven — 156 pcs. ice screws — 7 pcs., chocks, loops — 32 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours (first climber) — 32 h

D.B. Sharashenidze

Center of the big triangle of the North wall

(Report on the first ascent) Team captain MS USSR Sharashenidze D.B. Team coach MS USSR Kartvelishvili G.I. Tbilisi – 1976

Tactical plan of the ascent

The tactical plan was made taking into account the specifics of the area, characterized by complex meteorological conditions. Reconnaissance confirmed that the route is a monolithic wall of great steepness, and there are practically no places for overnight stays in a tent. Therefore, the tactics of passing this route had to be fundamentally different, since hanging overnight stays during a long ascent period greatly exhaust the climber's strength. The main difficulties presented by the wall were as follows:

1. Transportation of cargo on the route.
2. Organization of reliable and safe overnight stays without a tent.

Author: Kirill Belotserkovsky, Almaty

Report on the ascent of Jigit Peak

I wrote a report on our ascent of Jigit Peak. It's a detailed one with numbers, diagrams, and photos. So it doesn't gather dust in the archives of various commissions, I'll post it online, maybe someone will find it interesting.

• Ascent Passport
• Region, valley, section number according to the classification table: Tian Shan, Teskey-Ala-Too, 7.10.44­a
• Name of the peak, route name: Jigit via the center of the north face (Slesov's route)
• Category of complexity: 6A
• Nature of the route: combined
• Height difference of the route: 1200 m

ASCENT REPORT

1. Region, valley, classification table section number (2001): Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.44a
2. Peak name, route name: Dzhigit, via the center of the North face
3. Climbing category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1220 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1355 m. Length of sections: V category: 820 m, VI category: 370 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route: 78°

Climbing class — technical. Area of climb: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too. Climbing route with peak height — traversing the center of the north face of Pik Dzigit (5170 m). Climb characteristics: height difference 1370 m (without seracs), average steepness 78°, length of complex section 1270 m. Piton usage: standing, chock stones 163, ice screws 35, bolted 3. Total hours of climbing — 35. Number of nights and characteristics — 2 nights on the wall in hammocks, in "Pamirka" tents. Team name: team of Omsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification: Kudashkin Yuri Valentinovich — Master of Sports, captain

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — Technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of the North face.
4. Complexity category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: route length 970 m from the bergschrund, height difference to the ridge — 850 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 520 m, average steepness — 67°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 69 (8); chocks — 57 (5); ice — 40 (0).
7. Team's travel hours: 21 hours; 1.5 days.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one bivouac on a snowy ridge.

Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Karakol valley.
3. Climbing object: Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of the North face.
4. Difficulty category: VI (I. Slesov's route).
5. Elevation gain: 1380 m. Route length: 1695 m (including 250 m ridge). Length of sections with difficulty category 5-6: 1260 m. Average slope: 73° (3790–5115). Sections with difficulty category 6: 85° (3970–4420, 4630–4925).
6. Number of pitons:

44a

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Area of ascent: Tian Shan mountain range, Karakol gorge, Terskey Alatau ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Jigit 5170 m via the center of the North face.
4. Category of difficulty — 6.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1230 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1110 m, average steepness — 76°.
6. Number of pitons used: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds — rock — 81; ice — 17; screw anchors — none; placements — 89.