Central Tian Shan
Route Description: СЗ кулуару и 3 гребню
SSummitMatePassport of a winter ascent of 5B category of complexity to Simagin Peak (4400 m) via NW couloir of the North face in Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: winter 2. Ascent region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Simagina via N-3 couloir of North wall (4400 m.) 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B /approximate/ 5. Route characteristics: 46 m /m.r.u./ 195 m·m·m² height difference
- 750 m. wall section length
- 560 m. of them: 5th difficulty category
- 495 m. 6th difficulty category
- 85 m. average steepness — 64°
Route Description: СЗ кулуару и 3 гребню
SSummitMateClimbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route and key points for climbers.
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Route Description: СЗ кулуару и 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit on February 8, 1990, detailing the sections of the path and the specifics of the passage.
1st day of ascent. February 8, 1990. The group started the route at 3:00 AM. Section P0–P2. The upper snow-filled passage is traversed to the right under the ice wall. The sheer ice wall is climbed using Alpfiz with ice screws, with a short traverse to the left under the rocks of p. Sinagina. The belay spot is uncomfortable. Section P2–P6. The ice slope, with an average steepness of 65°, is climbed along the left part of the couloir, pressing against the rocks. Closer to the center of the couloir, snow dust pours down, making it difficult to work. Section R6–R7. The ice cornice is climbed to the left and upwards, leading to a very steep internal angle. The climbing is tense, and the belay spot is very uncomfortable. Section R7–R8. The ice internal angle leads to a ridge, the belay spot is uncomfortable, and it transitions into a rocky internal angle, with rocks covered in ice, making the climbing tense, and the belay spot uncomfortable. Section R8–R10. A series of moderately difficult rock walls with small, smooth holds covered in ice lead to a steep "chimney" with a plug. Section P10–P11. Climbing in the "chimney" with a plug is very difficult and tense. It is necessary to clear the holds from ice and snow. The "chimney" ends with a rock ledge — a good spot for belay. Section P11–P12. A series of moderately difficult rock walls, complicated by ice on the rocks, lead to a steep, broken rock ridge, with dry rocks, and convenient belay spots. Many old pitons are found on the rocks. The rock ridge leads to the summit. The descent from the summit was made via the ascent route. Features of the passage:
Route Description: правому ребру С кф.
SSummitMateDescription of the Polevoy 5B route to Simagin Peak with a detailed analysis of key sections and recommendations for belaying and descent.
Author: Dmitry Pavlenko, Bishkek
Peak Simagina, Polevoy Route 5B
The approach from Koronskaya Hut takes one to one and a half hours.
From the bergschrund to the rocks, it's half a rope of ordinary ice.
The authentic variant bypasses the lower rock leg on the left. The climbing is up to 5th category,
but it's destroyed.
I climbed straight up the leg. Climbing is 5+ and A1 with some artificial aids.
In crampons, the second half of the rope can be climbed.
The 60m rope ends just before a gap in the ridge where the authentic route comes out.
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Pik Sкрытые (4650 m) from July 3 to 10, 1953, category 3A complexity, Evokokov route.
Route 6 Ascent to p. Skrylne from July 3 to 10, 1953 3A cat. sl. Evokokov, 72 4650 m
| № | Fig. 1 | Fig. 2 | Fig. 3 | Fig. 4 | Fig. 5 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| 2 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| 3 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| 4 | R1 150 м 30′ | R2 150 м 30′ | R3 150 м 30′ | R4 150 м 30′ | R5 150 м 30′ |
| R. Jeumente |
Route Description: с пер. Шестерых
SSummitMateDescription of the route to the top of Students through the pass of the Six with a detailed analysis of technical sections and relief elements.
From the parking lot at the GMS on the right-bank moraine of Golubina glacier, the path along the glacier to the Shesterykh pass takes 2 hours. From the pass, turn right and approach the base of the ridge ascent leading to p. Studentov. The beginning of the route is on the left, along the inner corner with ledges, which after 40 m leads to a convenient talus ledge (section R0–R1)
Further:
- Up to the left 20 m along the chimney
- 20 m to the right along the inclined ledge (section R0–R2)
- Exit to the "window" between two teeth (40 m)
- From the left of the edge, along the ledges, approach the inner corner, turning into a chimney
- In front of the inner corner - a 6-meter wall
- Section 4–6: along the inner corner and chimney 50 m - exit to the vertical wall
- Along the vertical wall and along the inclined ledge, bypassing the summit of the first ascent to the right, exit to the horizontal part of the first ascent (section 5–6).
Route Description: с пер. Шестерых
SSummitMateAscent to Mount Everest via the South Col route along the Southeast Ridge.
R2
Route Description: с севера
SSummitMateRoute on the southwestern wall of Pik Komosomola in Pamir, 3B difficulty category, climbed in 2004 by a team of two climbers.
082 2004 35*11
Route Description: с севера
SSummitMateDescription of the classic routes to the summit of Teke-Tor: category 3B route and Mukhamedov's category 3A route.
- Teke-Tor (Category 3B).
- Muhamedova (Category 3A) 57.
Route Description: СВ ребру из Аксая
SSummitMateDescription of the "Vostokovnitsa" route, category 36 difficulty, to the peak of Teke-Tor via the North-Eastern edge.
Vostokovnits Route
on p. Teke-Tor from NE NE edge 1986 36 cat. diff.