Central Tian Shan

Ascent record of Przewalski Peak (6400 m) in the Central Tian Shan via the northwest wall in 1974 by a team from the Armed Forces.

Passport of the ascent made in the USSR mountaineering championship 1974. Ascent class I - High-altitude technical Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, North Inylchek glacier Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — northwest wall of Peak Przhevalsky, 6400 m. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1835 m, average steepness 70°, length of difficult sections 832 m Pitons used: rock 182 ice 17, bolted 2 Number of climbing hours — 90

### Second ascent of Mramornaya Stena peak (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the North-West ridge, grade 5A.

Ascent Log Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge, Bayankol valley, 7.17.06 Peak Marmor Wall (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the Northwest ridge. Category 5A, second ascent. Route type: combined. Route elevation gain: 2650 m Route length: 4600 m Length of Category V sections — 930 m. Average slope Main part of the route 40° (4100 m – 6100 m)

Route passport for Category 5A climb to Peak Mramornaya Stena (6350 m) in the Central Tien Shan, ascended via the right Western counterfort of the Northwest ridge.

Passport Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge. Peak Marmorная стена (6350 m), via the right Western counterfort of the North-West ridge. Category 5A (third ascent). Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 2650 m; route length — 4600 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty: 900 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 40° (4200 m – 6100 m); — whole route — 37° (3700 m – 6350 m). Pitons left on the route: 4; including "drills": 1. Pitons used on the route: 10; including "drills": 8.

Report on the ascent of the Kazakhstan national team to the peak Mramornaya стена (Marble Wall) via the North Wall buttress, category 5A climb.

WORLD CUP HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Report of the national team of the Republic of Kazakhstan on the ascent of Mramornaya стена peak via the buttress of the North face, cat. dif. 5A Ascent Passport Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table: Bayankol, at the junction of the Meridionalny and Sarydzhas ridges, Name of the peak, route name: Mramornaya стена via the buttress of the North face Cat. dif.: 5A Route type: Combined Height difference of the route: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m

First ascent of Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) in the Central Tien Shan via the northeast slope, category 5A difficulty.

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Description of the first ascent to the 4310 peak via the Central North-West buttress, grade III–B in the Central Tien Shan, complexity category 3–5, elevation gain 5 km.

Climbing category — technical Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan (Karakol) Peak, its height, route — Peak 4310 m, via the central NW buttress. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B. Route characteristics height difference — 510 m, average steepness — 45°, route length — 745 m Pitons driven rock — 10, chocks — 3, ice — 10 Number of climbing hours — 8 hours Team composition:

Description of the first ascent to the summit of Sherkhan-Yuzhny via the Northeast wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed analysis of the route and recommendations.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technical. Region — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge. Peak, its height and ascent route — Sherkhan Yuzhny, 4255 m, North-Eastern wall. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 68°, length of sections: I — none, II — none, III — 15 m,

Traversing Sherkhan — Ondoo-Choku peaks in Terskey Ala-Too, category III, first ascent, route description, and technical characteristics.

Ascent Passport Class — technical. Region — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatoo. Traverse of peaks: Severny Sherkhan — Tsentralny — Yuzhny Sherkhan (about 4220 m) — Ondouuchoku (about 4350 m) with ascent to Severny Sherkhan via the Eastern counterfort. Estimated difficulty category — 5B, first ascent. Characteristics: height difference — 650 m; average steepness — 55°; length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 325 m. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 28 pcs., ice — 3 pcs., bolted — none. Departure date — August 1, return date — August 3, 1977. Number of climbing hours — 19, including 13 hours for the ascent via the Eastern counterfort. Number of nights: two on the moraine below the beginning of the counterfort.

Description of the 5B category route to Festivalnaya peak via the NE buttress in Terskey Ala-Too with a detailed analysis of sections and technical details.

I. Technical Category Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too v. Festivalnaya via NW buttress Proposed category: 5B Elevation gain: 840 m, wall length: 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall: 66°. Pitons used: rock 103 nut 32 ice 25 bolts –

Description of the route 5A cat. difficulty level to the Toleni peak (4100 m) via the East face in the Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tian Shan.

Passport I. Rock class. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors Travel time: 12 hours. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.