Central Tian Shan

Video guide to the "Kuzmenko" route (5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekhey by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Kuzmenko route ("Kuzma", 5A, rock climbing) on Peak Baychechekay by Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the Schwab route (5A) on Peak Baychechekhey by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the Schwab route (5A, rock) on Peak Baychechekhey by Dima Pavlenko.

The article describes logistics, infrastructure, and seasonality for climbers in Kyrgyzstan's national parks, including information on transportation, accommodation, food, and weather conditions.

Logistics How to Get There By Private Vehicle As of May 2025, entry to the national park is closed to vehicles with internal combustion engines. Entry for electric vehicles remains open and costs 800 som. There is a parking lot at the top, costing 50 som for an unlimited time. By Taxi You need to get to the entrance to the national park: . However, taxi drivers are not very fond of going there, so some minor difficulties may arise. The cost per car is around 600-800 som from the center of Bishkek. By Public Transport In May 2025, a free bus was launched. It starts from T. Usubaliev Square (often referred to as the old central square of Bishkek, near monuments and administrative buildings in the center) — a landmark in the city center. Transport Inside the National Park If you're not using a private vehicle, you need to pay 200 som per person to enter the national park. The number of days spent in the park is unlimited. Payment can be made in cash, by card, or with national QR transfers. Buses run around the clock from the entrance of the national park to the end of the road inside the park. The interval between buses is approximately every 10 minutes during the day and every 30-40 minutes at night.

**2021 Russian Alpinism Championship: First Ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov via South Face "Impromptu" Route, Category 5B**

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021 Altitude Class Report on the first ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) via the South Face route "Impromptu," approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Sports Climbing of Moscow, August 20-27, 2021. Head Coach: Kuznetsova E. V. Team Leader: Nilov S. A. Moscow 2021 Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) South Face "Impromptu" Ascent Passport | 1. General Information | | | | :----------------------------------: | :----------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team Leader | Nilov S. A. (MS) |

Report on the ascent to the summit of Voennyh Topografov via the center of the Southwest wall, first ascent by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast.

Russian Mountaineering Championship High-altitude Class 2023 ASCENT REPORT on the ascent to the peak of Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the center of the Southwest wall 6B category of difficulty (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast. Period: 01.08.2023 – 07.08.2023 | | 1. General Information | | | :-- | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | :------------------------------------------------------------------------ | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Parfyonov A.A. (Master of Sports) | | 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the team participants | Mukhametzyanov R.N. (Master of Sports), Sukharev A.Yu. (Candidate Master of Sports) |

First ascent of the Southern Ridge of Pik Voennyh Topografov (6873 m) in Chinese Tien Shan, rated 5B-6A.

High-altitude and technical class Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China). Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent). Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately) Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,

First ascent of Jhel-Tegermen peak (4570 m) in Tian Shan by the West couloir and South ridge, cat. 3B.

Pasport of ascent to Jel Tegermen peak 4570 m. Tian-Shan, Central part of At-Bashi range, Boskurbu tract. Absent in classificator. Jel Tegermen — 4570 m. Via Western couloir and then along Southern ridge. Proposed 3B cat. dif. First ascent. Combined route Height difference — 520 m according to (GPS). Route length — 800 m. Sections: 2B cat. dif.: 600 m, 40–55 degrees 4A cat. dif.: 200 m, 40 degrees

Report on the first ascent of Chontash Eastern peak (4553 m) via the North route, rated as Category II complexity.

REPORT On the First Ascent of Chongtash East Peak (4553 m) from the north, 2B category of difficulty Climbing Passport Climbing area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan Peak name: Chongtash East (4553 m, N 40°54.994′, E 74°5.810′ (WGS 84)) Route name: "through the Gates", from the north Category of difficulty: proposed 2B Route nature: snow-ice Route elevation gain: 900 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 1600 m. Average slope: 30°. Six rope lengths of firn/ice up to 50°, AI1–2.

Report on the first ascent of Kremen peak (4351 m) via the Western ridge, category 4A, in the Djamantau ridge, Inner Tien Shan.

Report On the First Ascent of Kremen Peak (4351 m) via the Western Ridge, Category 4A Climbing Passport Climbing Area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan Peak Name: Kremen (4351 m, N 40°54.604′, E 74°39.295′ (WGS 84)) Route Name: via the Western Ridge Category of Difficulty: proposed 4A Route Type: rock climbing Route Elevation Gain: 540 m (GPS reading). Route Length: 700 m. Average Steepness: 51°. Climbing difficulty mainly III–IV, crux at the 2nd rope VI–/VI (UIAA)

Report on the first ascent of Ak-Jaman peak (4490 m) via the North-Eastern wall, rated as 4A/4B category of complexity.

Report On the First Ascent of Ak-Jaman Peak (4490 m) via the North-Eastern Wall, Category 4A/4B Climbing Passport Climbing area: Inner Tien Shan, Jamantau Ridge Peak name: Ak-Jaman (4490 m, № 40°54.413′, 74°49.720′ (WGS 84)) Route name: via the North-Eastern wall Route difficulty category: proposed 4A/4B Route type: ice climb Route elevation gain: 490 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 660 m. Average slope: 50°. 11 ice pitches up to 70°, Al2–Al3.