Central Tian Shan
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a detailed description of the challenging route and key preparation moments.
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Route Description: 3 ребру
Ascent description of Peak Korona (4860 m) in Kyrgyz Ala-Too range via the Third Edge, complexity category 5B, combined route, 920 m long.
Ascent Passport
- Region, Northern Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, 7.4.
- Peak Korona (5th) via 3rd ridge.
- Category of difficulty: 5B.
- Route type: combined
- Route elevation gain — 700 m. Route length — 920 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Average slope of the route: main part of the route — 61°,
Route Description: 3 ребру
Report on the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the "Korona" peak via the western edge, a 5B category route.
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KORONA, 5-YA VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 5B, BY THE KAIS MEI TEAM FROM AUGUST 12, 2021 TO AUGUST 13, 2021 Moscow, 2021
I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Gvakov Fedor Vladislavovich, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Vasnev Danila Olegovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Kutkin Sergey Anatolyevich |
Route Description: правой части ЮЗ стены
A new 6A route on the 5th tower of the Crown in Ala-Archa, climbed by a team of two climbers in 3 days using free climbing and aid techniques.
New route on the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa 6A, 950 m, fr 6c, A2
SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona with routes. (Glukhovtsev's route is not correctly marked — it goes right in the middle part to the couloir)
Few people know that at the end of August, a new route appeared on the SW wall of the 5th Tower of Corona in Ala-Archa. The route was climbed by a team of two: Syzshchikov Anatoly (Yekaterinburg) and Markevich Konstantin («SCA Zelenograd», Moscow). Since the guys are very modest, I'll describe this ascent for them.
In winter 2009, Misha Borich and I tried to climb it in a light style, without a platform, bolts, and preliminary processing, but were blown away after 3 days (http://mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=4401, our attempt).
When Tolik went to Archa for gathering, he asked for some interesting route to be suggested. And here is the result. I'll simply relay the information from the report.
Ascent passport
- Class — technical.
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Corona peak, 5th Tower, 4860 m, right part of SW wall.
Route Description: правой части ЮЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of a Category 6A route on the Southwest Face of Corona Peak (4860 m) in Tian Shan.
Report
On the first ascent to the peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the southwest wall, presumably 6A category of difficulty, by the team of "SCA Zelenograd" (Moscow) and "ROO FASO" (Ekaterinburg) from August 26 to August 28, 2013.
Ascent Passport
- Class — Technical.
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley.
- Peak Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, via the right part of the SW wall.
- Proposed category of difficulty — 6A. First ascent.
- Route type — Rock climbing.
- Route characteristics: | — Height difference of the route | — 725 m |
Route Description: центру ЮЗ стены
Description of the route of 6A category of complexity via the south-west face of "Korona 5-ya bashnya" peak (4860 m) in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, climbed in 2006.
Ascent Passport
- Tian-Shan Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak name: Korona 5th tower 4860 m
- Route V. Balezin (1996), center of the southwest wall, 6A
- Route type: combined
- Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Section length:
- V difficulty category 600 m
- VI difficulty category 110 m.
Route Description: центру ЮЗ стены
Description of a category 6A route to the summit of Korona (4860 m) via the center of the wall, climbed by a team from the Krasnoyarsk Krai sports committee in 1994.
Passport
- Technical class.
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range.
- p. Korona, 5th Tower, 4860 m, center of the NW wall.
- Proposed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics:
- elevation gain — 650 m,
- length — 930 m,
- length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m,
- average steepness of the route — 67°,
Route Description: центру ЮЗ стены
Description of the 6A category route to the summit of Korona (4860 m) via the Southwest Wall, climbed by a team led by Sergey Timofeev.
PASSPORT
- Technical class.
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge.
- Peak Korona, Fifth Tower, 4860 m via the center of the southwest wall.
- 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
- Route characteristics:
- length 980 m
- length of 5–6 category of difficulty 700 m
- average steepness of the route 67°
- average steepness of the main part 75°
Route Description: центру ЮЗ стены
Report on the passage of a 6A category route through the center of the southern wall of the 5th Crown peak (4860 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan in 1996.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — winter
- Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge
- Peak Korona 5-ya (4860 m) — via the center of the S wall
- Complexity category — 6A
- Height difference — 810 m Length — 960 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 580 m, of which:
- 6 category — 360 m (4260–4600). Average steepness of the route — 66° (4050–4860). Wall steepness — 81° (4260–4600)
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: центру ЮЗ стены
Description of a winter ascent, category 6B, to the summit of Korona (4860 m) via the central section of the crest wall in the Kyrgyz Range, Tian Shan.
Passport
- Climbing category — winter
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
- Peak Korona (5th), 4860 m, via the center of the southern side
- Category — 6A
- Height difference: 400 m Length: 1010 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 480 m Average steepness: 59°
- Pitons driven: