Central Tian Shan

Description of the route to the summit of Korona (I) via the western counterfort with a detailed analysis of the sections and recommendations on belay and equipment.

Оyatsa mapuryatapo sections Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying: through ice screws Movement: on a double rope with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фифи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

A description of a combined route to Ba'chechek peak in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range with details on passing characteristic sections.

Brief explanation of the table Peak Ba'checheke is located in the Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai horseshoe, between the peaks Uchitel and Skryabin. The route is combined: the path to the summit goes through 103 counter-force, i.e., along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the rocky bastion. When the bastion ends, the counter-force of the bastion turns into the pre-summit ridge. The entire route can be conditionally divided into the following characteristic sections: Section 1 Section 2 Section 3 | Section | 0-1 | — Couloir 5 |

Description of the ascent route to Khan Tengri peak via the western ridge from the Semenovsky glacier, category 5A complexity.

Ascent Passport Class of high-altitude technical ascents. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope). 5A category of route complexity, combined. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS

Report on the first ascent of route 2A category of complexity to the peak Uchitel (4550 m) via the eastern ridge in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge. Climbing Passport Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m, Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;

Route along the northern ridge of Ratzek Peak in Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, first ascent, 2-4 cat. of diff., 1200 m, 4 hours of climbing.

I. The route is rock. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too. Peak Ratsek along the ridge from the north. First ascent. Height difference: 440 m, route length: 1200 m. section 4 cat. diff. — 20 m. 3 cat. diff. — 200 m. 2 cat. diff. — 200 m.

Report on the ascent made by Black Ice team to the summit of Pik Boks via the Mikhailov Route, cat. 5B, in January 2020

Report On ascending peak Bokh via the route on the left part of the S wall (Mikhailova M.M.) 5B category of complexity by the team of a/c Black Ice for the period from January 4 to January 6, 2020 I. Climbing Report | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Stepanov Nikolay Anatolyevich, CMS. | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Lebedev Nikolay Mikhailovich, CMS. | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | - | | 1.4 | Organization | a/c Black Ice | | | 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | |

Description of the ascent route to Peak Izycskatels (4400 m) via the northwest wall, category 3B difficulty level.

Ascent category — snow and ice Kyrgyz Ala-Too Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face Proposed category difficulty — 3B Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50° Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws) Climbing hours — 4.5 Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent route description to the summit of Svobodnaya Korea (4,740 m) via the center of the north wall, the difficulty category is sixth.

Ascent Log Ascent class: technical Ascent area: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Ascent route: Svobodnaya Koreya peak, 4740 meters, via the Central North Face route by V. Bezzubkin Difficulty category: sixth Route characteristics: height difference 1100 meters, sections of 5th-6th difficulty category, 1150 meters, average steepness 70° Pitons used: for belaying: ice screws: 51 rock pitons: 76

First ascent of Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the direct wall in winter, cat. dif. 6B, team from Omsk in 1997.

Ascent Passport Ascent category — winter Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m), direct route up the N wall Category 6A difficulty. First ascent. Height difference — 890 m. Distance — 910 m. Length of category 6 sections — 180 m. Average slope of the wall — 68° Number of pitons left on the route — x Number of climbing hours/days — 30.5/5 Bivouacs 1–4 in a platform-tent on the wall,

Description of a 6A category complexity route to the summit of Pobeda (7439 m) in the Central Tian Shan via Dykiy Pass and the West Ridge.

Passport Altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge. Pobeda (Main) via Dikiy Pass over Pobeda (3) by 3rd category. 6A category of complexity. Elevation difference: 3039 m, distance — 10090 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route (Western ridge from Dikiy Pass to 6700 m) – 44° (5230 m – 6700 m), the whole route – 19° (4400 m – 7439 m). Previously hammered-in pitons: 15 rock, 8 ice, 1 snow (not removed). Hammered-in pitons: rock – 0, ice – 0, snow – 0. Team's walking hours: 26 hours, 5 days.