Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:

• At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
• Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
• Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
• The "saw" is the key section of the route.
• After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.

V. UPI from the north, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river to the beginning of the B.Aktru glacier (right) and up it to the first step of the icefall, located between the "khitsan" and the slope of v.Kar­atash (link up!). Time 1–1.5 hours. The first stage is overcome between the slopes of the peaks Karatash and the icefall (left along the track). Climb up the snowy slope to the second stage, which is bypassed on the left along the track, next to the rocky ridge of the peak are snowy. Cross the glacier in the direction of the peak UPI (crevasses!). Time 1.5–2 hours. Climb up the snowy-icy slope of the peak UPI to the pre-summit ridge. The ridge is sharp. The western side of the ridge is icy, the eastern side breaks off with cornices. Move along

V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III

From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

• go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
• the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
• there is a hut on the moraine.
• from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking. From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir,

PASSPORT

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. Radistov (Gl.) via the northern slope.
4. Proposed category 3A (first ascent).
5. Elevation gain 450 m, length 800 m.
6. Ice screws 21 pcs.
7. Total hours from base camp to base camp 12 h.
8. Approach possible with overnight stay at "Goluboe ozero" (Blue Lake).
9. Drakin A.V. CMS

The address of the group leader: Perm, Druzhby st., house No. 16, apt. No. 58, postcode 614070. Tel.: (3422) 65-16-78. E-mail: otorten@ocpi.ru. In the "Format" menu, specify the following:

• sent text
• use encoding — Cyrillic KOI8-R Korolev A. Yu. All questions related to the ascent should be sent to this address. The heights indicated in the report were determined using contour lines on a topographic map with a scale of 1:200,000.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter.
2. Ascent area — Altai, Mongolian Altai ridge.

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. v. UPI, center of the NW slope.
3. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed.
4. Nature of the route: ice.
5. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections:

• 2 cat. sl. — 550 m.
• 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:

V. UPI

3603 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on completing the ascent to v. UPI via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope "4A" (k)

Participants

Temerev I.M. Lizin I.S.

ASCENT DETAILS:

1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley, 102
2. Peak UPI, via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope.

UPI Peak

3603 m

07451

Report of the Kemerovo Region team (FACO) on the ascent to UPI Peak via the right part of the NW slope "3B", (k)

Participants:

Gette V.M. Zubkov A.Yu.

Ascent Passport

1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley.
2. UPI Peak, via the right part of the NW slope.

Ascent

To Einstein Peak via the North-Eastern wall (approximately category 3A difficulty) Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Members

1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
2. Tolmachev V.V. 1st sports category
3. Kalachev V.V. Candidate Master of Sports
4. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascent: Sports
2. Region of ascent, ridge: Central Altai North-Uysky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Lyzhnika 3680 m via north-eastern wall 10 V category
4. Required difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1180 m
   • Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty: 90 m
   • Average steepness: 50–60°
6. Number of protection points: Sports