New route in the Crimea on the «Zamok» («Castle») mountain: «Zelyony ugol» («Green corner»)

It seemed that the first ascent on Zamok is impossible, as it is one of the most popular peaks in Crimea, and everything that could be done, has already been done.

The summit of Zamok (650 m) rises several meters from the upper (old) road Yalta — Sevastopol near the village of Foros. To the left of Zamok is located Mshatka-Kaya mountain, to the right — Maly Kilse-Burun.

Once, accidentally looking at the mountain from the road, in the upper left part I noticed an inner corner, slightly overgrown with grass. None of the known to me routes passed through it, and the lower part logically led to the corner.

Preliminarily, for warm-up, we climbed the neighboring Geniuasha Shcherbakova route, everything seemed to be fine, but we didn't see any traces of passage. I talked to local alpinists — they also thought it was okay. And so it happened that during the championship we climbed a couple of routes on Zamok.

My partner was Ilya Melnikov, who fully shared all the difficulties of the first ascent, and guided the action like an instructor. The route turned out to be logical, tied to the relief. For passage, we didn't use skyhooks, hatchets, and other wonders. Stations were made on trees or on a stationary bolt 10×70 «Climbing Technology», provided by the company «Voskhozhdenie» («Ascent»). The route is not rockfall-prone, and surprisingly, there wasn't much grass.

New route in the Crimea on the «Zamok» («Castle») mountain: «Zelyony ugol» («Green corner»)

«Zelyony ugol» («Green corner») 5B VI A2+ 375 m.

Approach from the road along the trail leading to the couloir. Up the scree couloir to the left. The start of the route is several trees on the ledge.

R0–R1. 30 m. I

To the right, slightly up to the ledge, through trees, the landmark is a large tree. Station on the big tree.

R1–R2. 50 m. VI A2+

From the tree up through a small crack to the left of the chip, to the rusty overhang. On the rusty the crack disappears, the overhang is bypassed on the left 20 m. VI A2+. Then up through cracks (lightly lying down). Station — 10 m. before the tree, bolt.

R2–R3. 50 m. VI A2+

Up through the slot 10 m to the tree, using artificial aids. Then climbing through large slots to the tree 25 m. IV. From the tree to the right up through micro cracks, bypassing the sounding slap on the right. Landmark — a small tree on the wall 15 m. VI A2+. Station 2 m above the tree, bolt.

R3–R4. 45 m. VI A2

Up through the large inner corner, ( местами ИТО, grass). Station on the flattening, bolt.

R4–R5. 50 m. V+

Up through the center of the inner corner, landmark — a large pine. Station on the big pine.

R5–R6. 50 m. III

To the right-up through the oblique ledge, landmark — a group of pines. Station on the upper pine.

R6–R7. 50 m. II

Up through the lying inner corner. Then through the gentle rocks to the bush. Station on the bush.

R7–R8. 50 m. IV

Up to the steeper rocks 5 m. IV. Then to the right up through simple relief. Station not reaching 20 m to the bush, on our own.

R8–R9. 50 m. IV

To the right — up through the bush. Then up under the overhang, the overhang is bypassed on the left. Then exit to the top. Station on the tree. For passage, we used a standard set of equipment: