Crimea, Zamok. Description of the "Hod konem" route

We remind that in November 2006, the team "Extreme — Team" from Kharkov, consisting of Poltavets Evgeny and Sipavin Valentin, climbed a new route to the summit of Zamok in Crimea. The route passes through the central part of the main wall of the Zamok peak. It is located between the routes "Sokoliny" (to the right) and "First hod Fanika" (to the left). The peculiarity of the wall in this part is the presence of vegetation in the cracks, and the cracks are partially destroyed.

If we compare "Hod konem" with other routes on Zamok, then:

• In terms of technical difficulties, it is similar to the "Cherez peshcheru" route
• In terms of the number of intermediate bolts, it resembles "Sokoliny"
• Overall, it is more tense than these routes

The sections R1–R2 pass through a system of discontinuous cracks, making several turns. On the R6 section, the route connects with the route of Yu. Lishayev "Cherez sosnu, pravy" and along a long crack leads to a ledge, conditionally dividing the wall and the "roof". The exit through the "roof" was made by the classic path, coinciding and intersecting with the routes of I. Saveliev "Chapa-Chapa" and "Genius-Shcherbakova" and exiting along the gentle rocks of the "roof" to the summit.

Only 2 intermediate bolt hangers were hammered during the passage of the route. Equipment of stations:

• Stations R1 and R6 are equipped with one bolt
• At stations R2, R4, R5, 2 bolt hangers "Kong" (stainless steel, L = 60 mm, D = 10 mm) are installed
• Station R3 was equipped before us, not changed (one bolt)

On the R2–R3 section, there are 2 holes for skyhooks.

Overall, the route is more of an aid climb than a free climb. It should appeal to fans of "their own" insurance. To pass the route, it is necessary (desirable) to have:

• Hooks of all sizes and thickness, including "toporiki"
• Nuts
• Large hexes
• A set of skyhooks
• Ropes or narrow slings for threading (tying) hammered hooks

Description of the route by sections

R0–R1. From the ledge with a pine tree, move left — up along strongly destroyed rocks to a small ledge with a bolt. 25 m, 60–70, III.

R1–R2. Left of the station up to the oblique black destroyed crack and then along it left — up. The crack turns into a "podkhvat". From it left and then up along the flakes and discontinuous cracks through horizontal "pesochnye chasy" to a bolt (a small juniper remains on the right at 5–7 m). From the bolt up along the crack. The station is on the right on a ledge with a small tree on 2 bolts. 40 m, 80–90, VI, A3.

R2–R3. From the station, return left to the flake and up through the overhanging gray "puzo" without visible relief, to holes for skyhooks. From them to a small groove and then up along the discontinuous crack. The higher, the crack becomes more monolithic, the insurance is better. After 25–30 m, a system of cracks appears. Move along the right one, to the monolithic wall with an overhang. Bypass the overhang on the right and exit to a large ledge. Along the ledge left to a bolt. The length of the section is 55–58 m. If the rope is not enough, a station can be made on a large pine tree on the right, and then move to the bolt. 55–58 m (50), 85°, VI, A3.

R3–R4. From the station left along the ledge to the destroyed inner corner. Along the corner up to a ledge with bolts. 22 m, 90–95°, VI, A3.

R4–R5. From the left edge of the ledge along the destroyed, partially overhanging crack up, taking to the right. After 15–18 m — a bolt. From it 3 m up to the base of a white oblique strip on the wall. Along the strip climbing left-up 10 m and then traverse left through a vertical wall to gray slabs to two bolts. 35 m, 85–95°, VI, A3.

R5–R6. From the station left-up to a large vertical crack. Along it up to a ledge. 40 m. The crack is partially destroyed. Be careful when exiting to the ledge — there are many stones on it. 40 m, 85–90, VI, A3. Along the ledge left 20 m to a large pine tree. Further, the route coincides with the route "Chapa-Chapa".

R6–R7. From the pine tree 5 m left along the ledge, then through the wall 5 m up-left to a hook, through a bolt under the cornice, bypass it on the left and along the inclined inner corner exit to a large pine tree. 45 m, 75°, IV.

R7–R8. From the pine tree up 20 m, then up-right along the slabs and inner corners to a pine tree. 55 m, 60°, II.

R8–R9. Further up through the inner corner to an oblique ledge with trees to a pine tree. From it to a pine tree at the base of a crack, leading to the summit. 10 m, 75°, IV, 50 m, 55°, II.

R9–R10. From the pine tree along the inner corner exit to the yayla. 20 m, 75°, IV