On the right side of the «green corner», 5a (route by V. Timofeev, 1981)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and named Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir descending from the Green internal corner. From the alpinist camps, proceed about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, easy). On the section R1–R2 — overcome a small wall, move right along the ledge to the large internal corner, turning into a sheer chimney on the left side of the slab. Up the slab to the top of the outcrop:

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forosskiy kant. Routes of the "Green corner"

At the end of January, we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) climbed a new route in the left part of the Forosskiy kant, along the left edge of the "Green corner". The route looks so logical that it's surprising it wasn't climbed earlier. In the very corner, human tracks are visible, but whether it was completed to the top - I don't know; at least, I saw 2 rappel loops. The route starts at the same point as the left variant of the Kant, and goes left; the 2-grade route goes even further left. 125 ± 2 m, 5B, TD "along the left edge" Pugachev, Lavrinenko 35A TD - Timofeev's route

Along the western counterfors (Edge) from the left (edge to edge), 5a *) (by A. Grishkevich and V. Volkodav, 1970)

The route begins at the base of the couloir descending from the Green inner corner. Initially, move up along the talus and simple rocks towards the steep wall. In its left part, find a sheer crack (R0: 200 m, 30°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first up the crack, and then slightly to the right (R1–R2: 20 m, 80°, V; 20 m, 75°, IV). On the R2–R3 section — first up along the chip, and then to the right of two overhanging bastions (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III). On the R3–R4 section — slightly to the left, and then up the chimney with trees into the "bowl" under the Green inner corner. Then to the right towards a large 40-meter ledge on the counterfors resembling a paw, which is how it got its name (R3–R4: 80 m, 60–70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up onto the Paw from the left. Initially along the crack between the Paw and the wall. In the upper part, the crack turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°, V+). On the R5–R6 section — from the Paw, initially 5 m up the steep wall, and then two options. A relatively new one — up to the bolted route and along it 20 m up the sheer slab. The old one — to the right towards an old bolted route with rusty and partially broken ears. However, it's still possible to climb by using a rope thrown over the broken bolts for insurance. Along it, 20 m to the left and up (R5–R6: 35 m, 85°, V+). On the R6–R9 sections — initially up, and then traverse to the right under the overhanging wall to a large pine tree. From it:

• left and up,

Via the Western Counterfort (Kant) on the right, 5a (variant 5b) *

The route goes via the Western counterfort (Kant). Its beginning is on the right side of the counterfort base, 20 m to the right of the grotto (R0: 150 m, 20–300, no technical difficulty). On the R1–R3 section, there is challenging climbing along a 70-meter large cleft:

• R1–R3: 70 m, 85°, V+ On the R3–R4 section — upwards and leftwards along rocks of medium difficulty to the "Lapa" flake (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–600, III). On the R4–R5 section — upwards to "Lapa" from the left. First, through the cleft between "Lapa" and the wall. In the upper part, the cleft turns into a chimney (R4–R5: 40 m, 85°,

On the left side of the southeast wall and the western counterfort (Feathers), 5a *)

The route starts 60 m to the right of the western counterfort and passes:

• in the lower part — along a steep and smooth wall;
• in the upper part — along the western counterfort (Edge), transitioning to it through a chain of several spalls, named Feathers due to their external resemblance. (R0: 200 m, 20–30, no rope). On the section R1–R3 — upwards through a narrow vertical gap. Climbing is challenging (R1–R3: 70 m, 80°, V+). On the section R3–R4 — left and upwards first along the wall, and then 10 m along a chimney formed by the lower spall of the Feather to a shelf with a tree (R3–R4: 30 m, 75°,

Author: Aleksandra Lavrinenko, Odessa

Changes on Forosskiy Kant

On Per'ya route 5A (left variant):

1st rope - there were 8 old pitons, half of them had torn off ears. 3 new bolts were driven in the right places. A station was made on 2 × bolts, a ledge near a tree. 2nd rope - a station was drilled on a ledge near a tree. 3rd rope - a piton was replaced at the station, another one was added. 4th rope - pitons were replaced, 3 were driven instead of 4. A station was drilled near a small pine (previously it was on a pine). Further the route goes out to the kant, there are stations.

Along the reddish inner corner of the south-eastern wall (Red corner), 5a *)

In the upper part, the route passes through a mossy inner corner, nicknamed "Red corner" by the first ascenders, located to the right of the western counterfort. That's why it got the corresponding name. From the road near the alpinist parking under the Forosky Kant, proceed up and left, first along the trail, and then across the talus to the start of the cleft under the Red corner (R0: 150 m, 20–30, no category). On the R1–R2 section — up the cleft, starting 3 m to the left of the memorial plaque. There are piton hooks, including old ones. The thread of the route is very logical. The belay station is on a small shelf. (R1–R2: 45 m, 80°, V+).

SOUTHERN FEDERAL DISTRICT ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2020

ASCENT REPORT FOR FOROSKII KANT SUMMIT via the inner corner of the Southeast wall “Ryżyi ugol” (A. Stavnitser, 1971), 5A cat. dif., rock.

Team of the Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation. Team leader — Sokolov Alexander Alexandrovich. Team coach — Prilepa Evgeny Vladimirovich. Sochi

Ascent Details

1. Crimea
2. Foroskii Kant peak, 660 m.
3. Route: via the inner corner of the Southeast wall (A. Stavnitser, 1971)

Through the center of the southeastern wall via the cornice Semerka (Semerka), 5a (route by P. Denisenko, 1976), variant by V. Shushlyapin "Semerka on the left", 5B *)

The route goes through the center of the southeastern wall via a cornice, which resembles a seven in its shape. A landmark for its beginning can be a large juniper bush growing in the lower part of the wall. From the road near the alpinist parking under Forosskiy Kant, move up and left, first along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, category I). On the section R1–R2 — up 30 m to a wild strawberry tree (Bestydnitsa) (R1–R2: 30 m, 80°, IV). On the section R2­–R3 — first traverse 10 m left to a crevice, and then up along a vaguely expressed internal corner. Having overcome a short overhanging wall, move towards the juniper bush (R2­–R3: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R3­–R4 — first left and up 25 m along a chip to a dry tree on a ledge. Above the ledge is an overhanging wall. It is passed first on the left through a crevice, and then — along the internal corner (R3­–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+). On the section R4–R5 — first up and right along the internal corner to a green bush located to the left of the lower part of the Semerka cornice. Then move to the upper corner of the cornice (R4–R5: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R5–R6 — first pass the cornice straight up. Then traverse right 8 m along a ledge to a vertical internal corner. Up along the corner to a horizontal ledge, and then traverse 10 m left (R5–R6: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R6–R7 — up along smooth inclined slabs to a ledge (R6–R7: 40 m, 75°, IV).

Via the Southeast Wall Left of the "Diamond" (Left Diamond), 5B (route by A. Volkodav, 1973)

The route passes through the right part of the southeast wall. From the road near the mountaineering campsites, move upwards and leftwards, initially along the trail and then across the scree (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — climb up through moderately steep slabs to a ledge with a large forked tree stump (R1–R2: 35 m, 70°, — IV). On the R2–R3 section — traverse left along the ledge to the base of an internal corner (with a piton under the corner) and then up the corner with a tree growing in the middle. Despite the short length of this section, it's convenient to set up a belay point at the top of the corner (there's a piton), as the direction of ascent changes and it will be challenging to pass the rope further (R2–R3: 20 m, 70°, IV). On the R3–R4 section — traverse left for 12 m and then climb up a slab from a piton towards a deciduous tree. From the tree, ascend through a weakly defined internal corner with a crack. After 20 m, the crack ends at a plug/cornice. Above the plug, there's a convenient belay point on pitons. Characteristics of the R3–R4 section:

• 12 m, 60°, III
• 10 m, 80°, V
• 20 m, 85°, VI On the R4–R5 section — climb up through a crack and slab to a ledge under an overhanging wall.