Mshatka-Kaya — 9

Along the left edge of the Central Bastion (“Triangulyatsiya”), 4B (35 m, V)

From the upper highway 50 m east of the alpinist camps under Forosky Kant, ascend up and to the right, first along the trail, and then across simple rocks to the left edge of the Central Bastion (R0: 350 m, 30–45, no category). The sections of the route R1–R5 pass along a wide internal corner situated between the second buttress and the Central Bastion. Initially, ascend along the right side of the internal corner, and then Across steep slabs in its middle part (R1–R3: 70 m, 70°, III+). On the R3–R4 section:

Mshatka-Kaya — 11

Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" — blue line on the photograph

Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" (5A)

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko («Odes­sit»), Odes­sa A well-known route, climbed in the ancient times. Currently, many bolt hanger hooks are in disrepair, but the route is fully passable. You can approach the route from the Filatova contrefort or directly from the road via simple rocks. The route starts from an inner corner leading to the base of the "strelka" (IV+). Then:

• up the crack,
• to the top of the "strelka" (V),

Mshatka-Kaya — 12. «Kaskad»

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: V, A2 Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2006 Number of pitches: 9 Length: 370 m The route goes through the center of the wall, crossing a series of ledges, with a logical transition to the left in the upper part. Further, the route coincides with the «Strelka» route. The approach to the route is from the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie Vorota; a trail leads to the wall. Follow the trail, then the scree, generally left and up, to approach the lower belt of rocks. Through the rocks of the lower belt, left and up, choosing the optimal path, reach a ledge. Then traverse along the ledges to the left with a slight gain in height.

Mshatka-Kaya — 13 hours

Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya Mt. “Lishayov's Route” — red line on the photo

“Lishayov's Route” (5A)

Mt. Crimea Back to the main page of the “Mshatka-Kaya” essay. Author: Alexander Lavrinenko (“Odessit”), Odessa The route (“Fantika”) goes along the central bastion about a hundred meters to the right of the “Strelka”. It is rarely climbed as many people are not aware of its existence. The start of the route coincides with the “Triangle on the left” 3B route.

Mshatka-Kaya — 14

Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" ("Red landslide") — the green line on the photograph

Mshatka-Kaya "Ryzhiy vyval" (55)

Route by Yu. Lishayov ("Fantik"), Crimea Back to the main page of "Mshatka-Kaya. Three routes" Author: Alexander Lavriyenko ("Odessit"), Odessa The route passes to the right of the central bastion of Mshatka-Kaya. It is visited extremely rarely. The beginning coincides with the "Treugolnik sleva" ("Triangle on the left") route. Having passed along the "Treugolnik" for two ropes (50 m 70IV and 50 m 60III),

Mshatka-Kaya — 15 h

Author: Aleksandr Lavri­nen­ko, Odes­sa

“Not That Way!” 5B 270 m 6c A3

T. Tush­ko — A. Lavri­nen­ko, Feb­ru­ary 2007 The idea was to fol­low a big cor­nice to the right of “Ryzhiy Vyval” (The Red­dish Out­burst); pho­tos gave hope

• as a crack was vis­i­ble along the cen­ter of the cor­nice. Up close it turned out to be not a crack, but a scar from a de­tached boul­der. Hav­ing said good­bye to a beau­ti­ful idea, but sav­ing a dozen bol­ters and avoid­ing a cold over­nigh­t, we reached the sum­mit via a com­plex zig­zag. The ap­proach and first 2 ropes coin­cide with the “Treugol’nik Sleva” (Tri­an­gle on the Left) route. 2-3

Mshatka-Kaya — 21

Centre of the eastern bastion, 5a

From the upper road, ascend simple rock to the right part of an overgrown shrubby inclined terrace located under the eastern part of the wall. The route starts 20 m east of the beginning of the right "side" of the Triangle (R0: 300 m, 30–50, easy — I). On the R1–R2 section:

• from a narrow inclined ledge on the left side of a small, not clearly defined counterfort to a pine tree
• then up steep walls to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III). Then up through the centre of the bastion. The landmark is a 20-meter internal corner with a tree

Mshatka-Kaya. Eastern bastion, variation of the route "Po uglu" 5A (V A1 240 m (5 pitches) t 5–7 h). E. Poltavets (Kharkov) and V. Makoed (Odessa) 2013. The line passes through the inner corner with a non-monolithic relief. The route is prone to rockfall. You can approach the start of the route from the left, like for route №?. There's also an option to approach via the couloir separating Mshatka-Kaya and Zamok: from the road, go up the scree path, overcome a несложную стенку and ascend towards the couloir separating the massifs. Then follow the couloir. The cork is bypassed on the left via rocks (10 m II). From the couloir:

• left and up to the ridge (30 m I),
• then right and up to a large tree at the base of the wall. After rain and during snowmelt, the couloir is prone to rockfall. Route description:

Miatka-Kaya (618 m) — 24. "Diktat dozhdya" (Rain Dictate), 5B

The route was climbed on March 13-14, 2017, by the team:

• Zagirnyak Mikhail
• Pugachëv Sergey, in 12 hours The approach starts from the observation deck below Foros, going up the trail, and then along simple rocks and trails, traversing to the right in the direction of the "Triangulyatsiya" route. Passing the beginning of the ascent to the "Uho" route, move up to the right, towards a large group of trees under the main wall. The start of the route is on the left side of the wall, on implicit ledges. R0–R1: 40 m, I–II, 50°; When processing or carrying heavy backpacks, the first rope can be hung and a piton station organized 10 m below the large group of pine trees under the wall. Standing by the pine tree under the wall is extremely uncomfortable. Railing Station at R0–R1

Mshatka — Kaya — 10. «Genofond Selection» — (F6c E4), A3

The route "Genofond Selection" is indicated by a white line. Photo by A. Zhilin The route is located on the Mshatka bastion between the routes "Triangulyatsiya" and "Strelka" and has been considered for a long time. To begin with, Vova Odoyev and I decided to conduct a reconnaissance. On October 15, 2023, we approached the wall, climbed two ropes, received ambiguous impressions, took several photos, and descended. Upon reviewing the photographs, I saw an opportunity for a route that was logical, bypassing the living sections and areas lacking relief for natural protection, but it required a fresh look. For the second reconnaissance, I was joined by Kyiv resident Yevgeny Brusko — we climbed the same part of the wall up to the first overhang. The second time, it was a third faster, and the areas that were previously climbed using artificial aids were successfully passed by free climbing, which was a pleasant surprise. The further route line became clear...