Central Asia
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the north-eastern wall of *Pik Tadzhikistan* with a traverse of six highest summits of the Shakhdara Range in 1971
Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik"
Management of the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station Construction
Class of Traverses 7-15
Traverse (6100)
PEAK TADZHIKISTAN – PEAK BEZYMYANNY – PEAK TTU – PEAK NIKOLADZE – PEAK ENGELS – PEAK 40 LET LKSMU With ascent to Peak Tadzhikistan via the central part of the north-eastern wall through "Kniga" (first ascent) (Team of the special squad of the Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik" and the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station of the Tajik SSR) Team captain – sports master V. Bozhukov Team coaches:
- Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR K. Kuzmin
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East Face in 1973, 6B category of difficulty.
For the USSR Championship in mountaineering.
Report
On the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East face (category of high-altitude and technical ascents). Team captain: Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F. Team coach: Honored coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Markov V.G. Senior coach of the gathering, deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S. Team composition:
- Captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F.
- Deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S.
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of the north summit of Peak Tadzhikistan via the right part of the east wall, 1972, cat. 5B difficulty.
DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "AVANGARD" ALP CLUB "DONBASS"
REPORT
on the first ascent to the South Tajikistan peak (6300 m) via the right part of the eastern wall
Donetsk, 1972
I стр.
§ 1. Geographical location and sports characteristics of the South peak of Tajikistan
The South peak of Tajikistan is located in a spur of the Shakhdarin ridge, south of the main peak of Tajikistan (6565 m). On the eastern side, the peak is bounded by the Dridzh Zapadny glacier, and on the west by the Rovini glacier.
Route Description: правой части В стены с л. Дридж
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit, including information on the complexity, length, and features of overcoming the path.
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Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent description of TbBU (6141 m) peak via the North-Eastern ridge, difficulty category 4A, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1978.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: High-altitude technical.
- Ascent area: South-West Pamir.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Togu (6141 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
- Proposed category difficulty: 4A
- Route characteristics: height difference about 1640 m; average steepness 32°; section lengths: R1 — 1700 m R2 — 1090 m R3 — 2240 m R4 — 340 m
Route Description: СЗ кф.
SSummitMateA route through the south-west face of Pik Komosomola in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, ascended in alpine style with the use of technical protection measures.
Route Description: кулуару Ю стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit, complex and technically demanding, indicating key obstacles and tactical features.
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Route Description: 3 кф. Ю стены
SSummitMateDescription of the traverse of Engel'sa and Aksaiskaya trechina peaks by the Moscow team in 1971 with a detailed description of the route and its complexity.
Description of the traverse of peaks Engels, 40 let LKSMU and the ridge of Moskovskaya Pravda with ascent to peak Engels via the south wall
COMPLETED BY THE TEAM FROM MOSCOW from July 17 to August 2, 1971
Group Composition
The team has extensive experience in joint ascents in both the Pamir and the Caucasus. All members of the main composition, except E. Smirnov, had experience with ascents of 6th category of difficulty. When forming the team in Moscow, several complications arose regarding the release and financing of participants. The Moscow Committee covered the participants' championship expenses for food; other expenses were borne by the participants. It was clear in Moscow that there should be no more than 6 people on the route due to the high steepness and complexity of the South wall of peak Engels. A few days before departure, it became known that one of the strongest team members, O. Abalakov, was not released from work; V. Bezlyudny was also unable to participate. The remaining participants traveled to the area of peak Engels. During the final departure, D.A. Filippov fell ill and had to be left at the observation group's camp. Thus, the group embarked on the route with 5 members.
Route Description: 3 кф. Ю стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to the summit, technical details, and key features of the alpinist path.
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Route Description: Ю стене
SSummitMate### Ascent of Peak Engels via the South Face Category VI difficulty, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1978.
ASCENT REPORT
- Ascent classification — high-altitude technical climb.
- Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Kinty-Dzherab valley.
- Peak — Engels Peak 6510 m via the South Face.
- Anticipated difficulty category — 6.
- Route description: elevation gain — 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 912 m; average steepness of the rock section — 75°, average steepness of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 85°.
- Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors. rock pitons 137, 70; ice screws 0, 0; bolt pitons 0, 14.
- Total climbing hours — 3 h 30 min.