REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GAYKOM CENTRAL VIA THE ROUTE ON THE RIGHT PART OF THE SOUTHEAST WALL, GLAZUNOV, 5A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE TEAM PITER-1 (CLUB "GORY BAYKALA") DURING THE FULL-TIME CHAMPIONSHIP IN THE TECHNICAL CLASS FROM FEBRUARY 4, 2020 TO FEBRUARY 4, 2020

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

St. Petersburg Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class

2024 Alpkлуб "Gorniak" Team

Report

Ascent of Koazoy-Loam (3100 m) via the right part of the SE wall, Glazunova route, 5A category of difficulty February 29 - March 1, 2024 Sirel Alexander Nikolayevich, Pavlenko Georgy Dmitrievich, Kachkov Vladimir Vladimirovich

I. Ascent Passport

Russian Mountaineering Championship, Ice-Snow Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Kyazi (Koazoy-Loam, Girech, Gaykomd) Central (3100 m) via the right buttress of the right part of the southeast wall, 5B (approximately) complexity category. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Participants:

• Solovey A.I.
• Kananykhin I.V.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information | 1.1 | Leader's full name, sports rank | Solovey Alexey Igorevich, 1st sports rank |

Since many get lost on the route, I decided to write an addition to the description. The ledge on which "many" get lost, after R6, is misleading due to the description: according to it, the section R6–R7 is 60 m long, but in reality it's no more than 30 m. R6–R8 There's a belay station near a juniper bush, from it go left along the wall, as soon as it ends:

• go 8–10 m
• climb up the grassy ledges to the wall, also about 10 m From this point, on the right, you can see a flake:
• go under it
• 8 m up on it
• then immediately left, or right around the bend On the right, around the bend, there's an inner corner with grassy tufts/ledges, the walls are smooth.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Koazoy–Loam (Kyazi) via the left part of the southwest wall, category 6A complexity, by the team Stavropol Territory – 2, from 04.02.2020 to 13.02.2020 2020

Ascent Passport

Russian Mountaineering Championship

Technical Climbing Category

Ascent Report

TO THE SUMMIT OF KOAZOY-LOAM (3100 m) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL (LIVINSKY'S ROUTE) 6A category of difficulty by the team from Voronezh Region, October 29-31, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Report

1. Area 2.9. From Kre­sto­vy Pass to Sha­vi­kl­de Peak
2. Gaik­omd (C), 3100 m, via the left edge of the Southwest Ridge
3. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 690 m Route length: 805 m. Length of sections:

• I category of difficulty — 35 m
• II category of difficulty — 445 m
• III category of difficulty — 100 m

2021 2020 2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Area — from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak, p. 2.9
2. Peak — Gaikomd Centralny, 3100 m, via South-West edge
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing

5. Route characteristics:

Height difference of the route: 700 m. Route length: 850 m. Length of sections:

• III category of difficulty — 180 m.
• IV category of difficulty — 100 m.
• V category of difficulty — 160 m.

Report

First ascent of Gaikomd Central peak via South-East wall (through the cave)

Climbing Details

1. Climbing area – 2.9. Caucasus, from the Pereval Kreстовый to the peak Shaviklde
2. Object of ascent – Gaikomd peak, via SE wall (through the cave)
3. Category of difficulty ≈ 5B
4. Character of the route – rock climbing
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference – 690 m Route length – 1045 m